# Question about SA training



## Drapersmom (Nov 11, 2008)

It has become more than evident that Draper (he's 5 months) has serious issues with separation anxiety. He barks like mad when I leave him - although he'll sleep through the night most of the time in the other room. I'm talking barking for HOURS without stopping. I've given him special toys/treats, tshirts that smell like us etc, but to no avail. I've started the whole desensitization process - the keys, the door, walking in and out and he's made very little progress. But I know that we have to keep trying. 

My question is this - when I'm doing this training should I have him so he can see me go out and come in the door? Or should I keep his crate where it is so that he can't see me at all?


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## Alexa (Jun 17, 2007)

Marley hates to be left by himself, but I guess I just stick to the usual routine and hope that eventually he'll realize that we ARE in fact coming back. I have his crate up in my bedroom and just before leaving the house I stick him in there, give him some treats and turn the TV on....but I can hear him cry/bark within a couple of minutes while I am getting my coat on etc. When I get home he is usually sleeping, though, so he must stop eventually....


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## littlebuddy (May 30, 2007)

our pup (now almost 5) had major SA issues. we found what helped was him seeing us leave the house vs. confining him to a separate room. also, give him a special treat he only gets when you leave. use a key word. we say guard the house. the only time we say this is when we leave. try new treat, key word and leave the house for 1 minute and return. do this all day, adding a few minutes each time. eventually he will realize you always come back. also, spray lavender on his pillow, its calming. i also use a plug in phermone called comfort zone when we leave. it's a slow process but you must stick with it and it will get better. consisitancy is the key.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

here is an article by Norma Jeanne Laurette for SA Hi David,

Below is my separation distress file. Enjoy!

Norma Jeanne Laurette

Puppy Power & Canine Communication Studies

Dog Training/Behaviour Therapy/Career Courses

Founder & Chair; International Positive Dog Training Association (IPDTA)

www.dogtrainingcareers.com

HAPPINESS IS A CHOICE!!!

Canine Communication Studies

Professional Dog Training, Behaviour & Aggression Therapy

SEPARATION DISTRESS

General

 Because dogs are pack animals, it's normal for separation to cause stress. Because separation distress is an emotionally driven behaviour, the only way to change this behaviour is to change the way the dog feels about being alone. Any punishment or negativity is guaranteed to make the problem worse. Because it is a learned behaviour, it can be changed.

Treatment for Separation Distress

 Break the dependency.

 Ignore clingy/demanding behaviour.

 Reward independent behaviour with attention and treats.

 Remain calm before leaving.

 Fade the attention you give your dog over the last half hour before you leave. Ignore the dog for the last ten minutes then quietly and calmly slip out the door.

 Remain calm upon arriving home to keep your dog's excitement level down. Ignore the dog until it is calm then greet in a calm manner. If the dog becomes excited again, ignore it until it is calm once again.

 Choose one safe room to start.

 Puppy Proof the room so your dog can't get into trouble.

 Put away anything the dog may chew on and spray what cannot be removed with a dog repellant such as Bitter Apple. Note: The repellant will only work if you put some on your finger and touch the dog's tongue after spraying the objects. The dog will only be repelled by the aroma if it has previously tasted the repellant.

 Add Sound. (radio, television, a looped recording of sounds while you are home)

 Add a Toy Box full of safe and enticing chew items (thick smoked bones, thick and frozen marrow bones, stuffed bones and kongs) The longer the dog must be alone, the more options you will need. If the dog gets bored with one chew item, there must be another enticing option available.

 Change your Schedule so your dog cannot predict when you are coming and going.

 For severe cases use "Planned Departures" (see below)

 For severe cases, progress in tiny increments. Let the dog set the pace by only taking the next step when the dog is relaxed with the previous one.

 Be fair about the length of time you expect the dog to spend alone and/or confined.

 Holistic sedative to take the edge off - Homeopet, Rescue Remedy, Pet Sedate

 DAP - Dog appeasement pheromone plug-in

Planned Departures

For severe cases of separation distress, the dog cannot be left alone at all until you successfully build up to the length of time the dog must be left alone through planned departures. With a severe case such as this I would start by;

Placing the dog on a feeding schedule to make food valuable.

Teach a "happy" cue - Example: "Happy Time!" every time you give her an amazing treat or chew option. This gives you the ability to create happy emotions in your dog on cue and helps to set your dog up for success. Scent can also be used when the treat or chew option is presented as an additional cue creating a happy association whenever the dog smells the scent.

Procedure

1. Give the "happy" cue - "Happy Time!!!" as you give your dog the enticing chew-option.

2. Allow your dog to chew happily for a couple minutes.

3. Repeat until your dog wags its tail whenever you give your "happy" cue. Only then are your ready to take the next step.

4. While your dog is chewing the amazing chew option, get up as though you are about to leave and go through your "leaving" routine until the moment the dog gets a worried look on its face. At this point you will immediately sit down again and wait for the dog to begin to relax and chew again. When the dog is relaxed, offer a tasty treat in exchange for the enticing chew option and put the chew option away until you are ready to do another rep. What you are doing is desensitizing your dog to the first trigger of anxiety. Note: If at any time your dog is hesitant to give up the enticing chew option, stop what you are doing and call for help. If you become unpleasant with your dog at this point, you can create possessive aggression.

5. Repeat step four until that point in your departure does not cause your dog concern.

6. During your next repetition - go just a bit further until your dog shows concern again, then immediately sit down. For example - The first point of concern may be simply getting up, or getting your shoes, the next walking toward the door, or touching the door knob, etc.

7. Only take the next step when your dog is happy with the last step.

8. When you get to the door, slow down. Simply touch the door knob until that trigger doesn't bother your dog.

9. Then turn the knob until it does not trigger anxiety.

10. Then open and close the door.

11. Then go through the door and immediately return.

12. Then go through the door, close it behind you, then immediately return.

13. Then go through the door, close it behind you, count to one then return.

14. Repeat and count to two, etc.

15. If the dog regresses at any time, go back to your last point of success and proceed slowly.

It can help to have a video camera running so you know for a fact how the dog is feeling and behaving once you are out of sight. The idea is to work at the dog's pace, never taking the next step until your dog is relaxed with the last one, and gradually building up to a reasonable length of time. By doing this you are teaching your dog three things;

1. You are coming back.

2. Good things happen for your dog when you leave (It gets its favourite chew option)

3. Where to direct its stress when you are gone. This becomes habit with repetition.

Make sense??? If the dog has to be alone at all when you have not successfully built up to that length of time, you will undo all previous work. If you miss any of the important aspects of this procedure you may not be successful. You have to understand that your dog has bonded with panicking and wants you to come back. All negativity must be removed from your life and your dog's life as you slowly build independence and confidence. It can be done but it takes patient and dedicated owners.

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