# Loose leash walking



## Naturelover (Nov 30, 2013)

So Archer is ALMOST 6 months now. Wow, you guys said the time flies and you were right!

We're doing pretty well but we are still working on loose leash walking. I'm using two techniques at the same time- I picked up one from each puppy class I went to.

1) Lure the dog using food to stay at your side and walk with you (heeling). Reward after increasing distances before they break away. Gradually phase out the lure. I have been using the cue "Let's go" to mean "stop sniffing that and walk with me now". The only problem with that is if he sees something more attractive he bursts ahead to get to it faster.

2) When he bursts ahead to get to something, I walk in the opposite direction, pretty much dragging him backwards (or forwards if he has put on the brakes for something). When he stops straining and reduces the tension, we then proceed toward the thing, ideally with him paying attention to me, which I would then reward.

I'm getting somewhere with all this, to be sure, but still struggling with him bursting forward and kind of spazzing out when he doesn't feel like being focused on me- esp. when we are heading home (he really likes coming home and doesn't really get excited for walks, though he is happy when he is out there and there's grass and stuff)

I can walk him really nicely in the hallway and other less stimulating areas. How old were your Havs before they managed to get the picture on loose leash walking? He does stop when I stop, about 70% of the time, and comes to pay attention to me (because I had been clicking and treating for focus in those situations). When I know he wants to sniff something, and he is under control, I will tell him "ok you're free" which means sniff, mark, roll, do whatever it is you want to do, until it's "Let's go" time.

Should I stay the course and hope age helps? Or should I change my techniques somewhat?


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## Pucks104 (Aug 16, 2012)

I'd say Archer is doing quite well for his age. The world's an exciting place and it takes A LOT of self control to ignore it and stay by mom's side! Practice, practice, and more practice as well as talking to him in an upbeat engaging manner and the use of VERY high value treats will help him stay attentive to you. You can also just stop when he surges ahead and not move forward again until he is by your side. All of this takes lots of practice and patience but if you are consistent he will eventually learn to walk nicely on a loose leash.


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## Naturelover (Nov 30, 2013)

Thanks, yup I use my best "proud of my puppy" voice when he is doing great, and I reserve the dried liver for the walks- it's apparently the tastiest of the options! I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track. I'll keep it up!


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## jabojenny (Sep 18, 2011)

I think it sounds like Archer is doing well too, I wouldn't change anything. This is a gradual process and he will be better with age. I think a lot has to do with the dog as well. From what you say about Archer being more compliant with no stimuli tells me he does understand but he is young. Timmy is WAAAAY better than Mae when it comes to "pleasing" me thus it appears he is smarter since he does was asked but Mae is smart too, she does has different agendas LOL. It is important, like you said, to let them have some fun during walks too. I have used counting 1-2-3 when they go to smell something and then it's time to move on. He'll surprise you and do stuff when you least expect it which is so rewarding. Have fun though, that's what it's all about!


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

I agree, it sounds like you're on the right track. I wouldn't move back when he buzzes ahead of you though… Just turn into a tree. Do nothing, SAY nothing until he turns to look at you. Then click, and he'll come back to you for his cookie. It is absolutely classic that he is more capable of controlling himself in less stimulating environments. Even in our (very advanced) competition obedience class, our intructor is always reminding us to take our dogs everywhere. Get them out of the car, and if ALL you can get is for them to look at you the first few times, you reward that, put them back in the car and go home. The more different environments they are exposed to, the better. Dogs are very poor at generalization, so they need a LOT of success in a LOT of settings before a behavior is really solidly "proofed".

While I agree that dogs sometimes need to be allowed "sniff breaks", I, personally, NEVER let the dog break away from me then allow this. When we are walking together, we're walking together, and I expect enough attention that we STAY together. When Kodi was a puppy, I kept him more or less in heel position, because that's where he was best able to control himself, and where I was best able to help him when he needed it. Now, as an adult, trained dog, I never expect "heeling" except in the context of formal "work". When we are out on a walk, my criteria is that he can be in front, to the side or behind me, AS LONG AS there is no more than light finger pressure on the lead. Barely more than the weight of the lead itself. He knows the rules, and is very enjoyable to walk with. Everyone is going to have different ideas of how their dog should behave on lead, and that's fine, just put some thought into your criteria, and then HOLD THE LINE. The best trainers I know are those who are very clear, in their own heads, about the criteria they are looking for, and never let it slip.

When it's OK for Kodi to sniff around, I have a cue for it. In my case, I use, "Be a dog!" When I say this, Kodi knows he can go investigate whatever he wants, and, if he's on leash, I will follow him. When I say, "OK, Let's go!", he knows we are going back into "walk mode".


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