# Some grooming videos on brushing and mats



## atsilvers27 (Jul 5, 2011)

Here are some videos I found on youtube that I think are helpful for anyone wondering how to properly brush and comb their dog. The dogs aren't Havanese but the technique is still the same. FYI never use a dematter on a dog you are planning to show.

If you're going to use a pin brush I don't recommend using one of the cheap ones with the little balls at the end - the balls can pull hair out and the tines tend to be too far apart to be an effective tool - always use high quality tools, you will save money by buying quality tools vs. having to buy the better tools after realizing the cheapies don't work.

Maintenance brushing:






Line brushing and demating technique:











Another good clip - except the dog is black and you can't see it, but other than that it's a good visual











If your dog is a bit more matted than the ones in the videos, do the same thing except work on the larger mat by teasing out the ends of the mat and then breaking it into several smaller ones. For example, if the mat is bigger than just at the skin, start by combing or brushing the end of the hair. Then brush toward the skin. Work on the outer edges of the mat, then cut the mat in half or more and work from those new angles. It may seem like it takes a long time, but there is a turning point at the end where all of the sudden the mat is almost gone. When you think it's out, use the comb from the skin and outwards. If the comb glides through smoothly, the mat is gone. If it catches, you have to keep working on it. Work one section at a time until that particular section is completely mat-free. Then go onto a new section. Remember, if your dog is dirty, the comb may not feel as smooth as on a clean coat because the hair is gunky.

As you work on the dog, if you have to break it over a period of a few days, don't forget to go back and maitain what you dematted. Otherwise because of the static, dirt, grease, and the hair being twisted, etc, the hair can re-tangle. Reward your dog for his patience with praise and a treat when you are done. If your dog all of a sudden doesn't want to be brushed, you are doing something wrong. It is impossible for more serious de-tangling for the process to not be completely comfortable for your dog, but it should not be torture either. For example, my MIL was shocked when I was brushing my dog and she was completely calm about the entire process. She used to keep a Shih tzu in full coat and she said her dog was never calm for brushing. My FIL and DH had a good laugh at that as they told me the dog screamed throughout the 3 hours of brushing. I'm sure she was tugging and pulling on her dog, which is very painful. So the key is if you have to demat, do it gently.

If you cannot demat the dog gently enough and the dog is in too much discomfort, the humane thing to do is to start fresh and have him shaved. Leaving mats in the skin is not good as they only get tighter and cause irritation, bruising and poor blood circulation when very bad.


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## RitaandRiley (Feb 27, 2012)

Thank you for the advice you give, it is much appreciated!


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## Diann (Apr 25, 2011)

Angela, 

Thank you for posting the videos. I came home yesterday afternoon and Lucy had stopped itching so bad so I ended up not rewashing her. 

Questions: I had been told by a breeder before I got Lucy that using a slicker on the coat was a no-no. Your opinion? I've been doing the process backwards from these videos. I've been combing and then gently slicker(ing) to pick up the hair the comb misses. What kind of slicker do you recommend? 

I wonder if I've ruined the ends of her hair. It seems that were most of the tangling happens. Would it be any advantage to trimming her hair like I trim mine to get rid of the damaged ends? 

She's black and her hair looks very dry and reddish, except about 1/2 inch of the roots. Her roots are coming in pitch black. Is the reddish black that color because of the damage? 

How can I moisturize her hair and get it back into a healthy state? I've been using CC Spectrum 10 shampoo and conditioner. 

Thank you again for finding these videos and posting them. I wish I could find a video of the dog immediately coming out from under the water and how the groomer proceeds from there. Lucy's hair is "stuck" to her body and it's impossible to go through.


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## atsilvers27 (Jul 5, 2011)

Diann said:


> Angela,
> 
> Thank you for posting the videos. I came home yesterday afternoon and Lucy had stopped itching so bad so I ended up not rewashing her.
> 
> ...


OK, to try to go over these things, I think you don't have to worry about the hair when it is wet. If your dog tolerates a dryer, don't even bother doing anything to her coat when wet just go straight to the drying. I don't have a stand dryer but I do have a professional level CHI human dryer, which had the most power out of all the dryers I looked at. Anywho, the awkward part is holding the dryer with one hand and brushing with the other. As you dry, notice the individual hair shafts in the coat. When you first dry, the wet hairs will appear stuck together, like spaghetti that was not stirred, or it may even look tangled. When the hair dries, it will separate into individual strands. When all the hair in a certain section is dry, the coat should appear like this: you will see the skin in the center, where the air is blowing onto. Then all of the hair blowing out from there in individual strands. If the hair is dry, but you can see clumps where you are drying instead of straight blowing hairs, those are mats. You can use the hair dryer method before a bath as a test to check for any mats.


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## atsilvers27 (Jul 5, 2011)

For the slicker brush, there used to not be many options for those. One of the more common slicker brushes was the Universal slicker, which is very harsh and meant for dogs with heavy, thick coats like a golden. I would not use that tool on my dog, so ten years ago I would agree with your breeder to not use one on a breed like a Havanese. Today however, there are many more options for slicker brushes. Even recommended grooming companies like Chris Christensen makes a slicker brush. I use soft one made for puppies that I bought at PetCo. It's a really useful and safe tool when used appropriately. I have always used a slicker on my dog, at least on her legs, and her coat is not damaged.


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## atsilvers27 (Jul 5, 2011)

As far as the appearance of the coat, I am not a vet but it could be either a nutrition/diet thing, coat color change or sun damage. I've seen black horses and dogs turn reddish-brown from the sun. I would not recommend just getting ends trimmed yet, since you're saying 1/2 growth is jet black, right? The hair would have to be hand scissored so you'd either have to find a talented groomer or risk a hack-job. If the hair is truly damaged, I don't think product could really fix that. If you are improving her diet with upgraded quality in food or adding a skin and coat supplement, that will only affect new growth, not hair that is already grown. What you might want to consider is, if the coat isn't really tangled but the old growth is nappy and the new one coming in looks nice, wait until that part grows out more and then give her a cut, maybe a partial cut, or you can do it in stages so that gradually there is less old coat and more new coat until it's all the nice hair. Or you can just lop it off in one cut, it's up to you. Many havs do go through color/texture changes, so it may not be damage, just a change in texture.


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## Diann (Apr 25, 2011)

I know that "look" you mention when drying the hair. In fact, her hair looks like it's zebra-striped when I blow the hair dryer like that. I am VERY fortunate to have bought an attachment for my grooming table that is flexible and holds the hair dryer. I have a grooming dryer with a cool heat setting that I always use. I'll stop trying to comb out the hair when it's wet. It's a pain! 

As far as cutting her hair -- I did that once, last spring. I've always wondered if that's why the ends of her hair are so tangled. I read once that cutting the hair messes it up somehow. 

Angela, thank you for the time you've given me/us.


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## Lily528 (Oct 3, 2012)

I have been looking up tips on grooming, and have noticed that some people like to use a wooden pin brush made by Chris Christensen. Others, including the ones in the videos like a slicker brush. I am planning on keeping my pup in a puppy cut, longish but not too long. What do you suggest for getting mats out of a puppy cut?


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## atsilvers27 (Jul 5, 2011)

Lily528 said:


> I have been looking up tips on grooming, and have noticed that some people like to use a wooden pin brush made by Chris Christensen. Others, including the ones in the videos like a slicker brush. I am planning on keeping my pup in a puppy cut, longish but not too long. What do you suggest for getting mats out of a puppy cut?


A slicker brush, a metal comb, and detangling spray. If there are stubborn tiny hairpin knots that the slicker cant get, use a flea comb. I wouldnt suggest a wood pinbrush for a puppy cut. It will not be as effective a tool and also expensive. Wood pin brushes are good for long, tangle-free hair to preserve the coat, and also for sensitive dogs as they dont really do much.


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## Lily528 (Oct 3, 2012)

OK, any particular brand/type of slicker brush? What is a good detangler spray?


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## atsilvers27 (Jul 5, 2011)

Lily528 said:


> OK, any particular brand/type of slicker brush? What is a good detangler spray?


Any reputable brand that makes a slicker will work. That could be CC, #1 All Systems, anything at a dog or grooming show, there's Les Pooch, but it's expensive. I just have one from Petco for puppies, and that works fine. I dont recommend Petsmart as I dont like their grooming merchandise, it's very cheap. For a detangler, The Stuff is very good, but not meant for show coats. Any shampoo that you like will likely have a good detangler too. It's up to you to find the right combination of products as every dog is different.


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## Lily528 (Oct 3, 2012)

Thank you so much for your good information!


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## HavaneseSoon (Nov 4, 2008)

My experience: Dexter had red tones to his black hair which you can see when he is outside in the sun. I have used products that say "Black on Black," they work very well during the bathing and no more red tones.


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

atsilvers27 said:


> Wood pin brushes are good for long, tangle-free hair to preserve the coat, and also for sensitive dogs as they dont really do much.


That's right. I love my CC wood pin brushes, and so does Kodi. He LEANS into them as I brush him. But I think it's like getting a good scalp massage. They are useless for removing mats, and only slightly better for light tangles. I use them for fluffing him up just before going into the ring, or if company is coming, and he has been thoroughly groomed earlier in the day.


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Lily528 said:


> Thank you so much for your good information!


And one of the best detanglers is plain old (dry) corn starch. It makes the hair very slippery, which helps to work knots out, and then brushes right back out of the coat.


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## Diann (Apr 25, 2011)

HavaneseSoon said:


> My experience: Dexter had red tones to his black hair which you can see when he is outside in the sun. I have used products that say "Black on Black," they work very well during the bathing and no more red tones.


I'd read about this product yesterday. However, it said to not use it on black dogs with white on them, that it will stain the white--turning it gray. I believe Dexter has white on him. What is our experience?


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