# HELP: pulling on walks, he thinks he is a huskey



## miller123 (Aug 13, 2011)

so miller is doing great, no slip ups in potty training for at least 3 weeks ect... 
but he is lacking in one area, when ever we go for a walk, he pulls alot, like i mean alot. So i was wondering if anybody has and ideas, i have already tried food, toys and gentile pulls on the leash. he hasn't responded to anything, so i was wondering if anybody has any opinions on the halti gentile leader or choke check collars. also if anybody has had this problem and how they solved them.

thanks


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

good to hear the housetraining is going good. Most don't LOL . I have a few good articles but read this one lately. It's Miller Time. http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/leash-walking-qa I like the part about smelling the roses. The walk should be fun and mentally stimulating for your dog. Unlike certain TV trainers, that promote regimental walking , there' s more to the walk than walking. Let your dog smell the roses sort of speak. Excercise and discipline are only part of the walk. Your dog wants stop and sniff, that's what dogs do. Could you imagine not being able to read your email. Well a dog wants to read his pee-mail. LOL The walk is primarily for the dog, in my opinion. It also has benefits for us. Dogs are not waterdowned wolves. But if anyone wants to draw an anology, I ask them , have you ever seen a wolf walk nonstop just to get excercise. ?


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

Just reread your post. I missed where you mentioned choke collar. Without going into it, I strongly recommend not using one. End of Rant. Check out post called ,Best size harness for puppy . I like the Easy Walk Harness


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## j.j.'s mom (Aug 16, 2009)

be aware that there is a difference between the gentle leader and the easy walk harness.
the gentle leader is dangerous for small dogs and is known to cause neck injuries. the easy walk harness is the safest. just be aware that if you don't take it off after a walk, your little angel will chew on it. premier will replace them at a discounted price, but best to try to avoid replacing it in the first place. i have replaced one.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

j.j.'s mom said:


> be aware that there is a difference between the gentle leader and the easy walk harness.
> the gentle leader is dangerous for small dogs and is known to cause neck injuries. the easy walk harness is the safest. just be aware that if you don't take it off after a walk, your little angel will chew on it. premier will replace them at a discounted price, but best to try to avoid replacing it in the first place. i have replaced one.


Well hello. Where have you been all this time. We need more good advice like this.


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## clare (Feb 6, 2010)

Going for a walk with your dog should be about fun for both of you, but especially for your pup,if he is having fun so will you!I found a soft harness to be most beneficial,it taught Dizzie to walk nicely,and it was comfortable for him too,he used it for about 3 months and then the cold weather came and as he was still not in full coat needed to where a coat for warmth so went back to a regular collar and lead,but by then he was brilliant at walking well on the lead.


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## narci (Sep 6, 2011)

Hi Miller, glad Oreo's brother is doing well in the potty dept. Oreo is doing well himself. Started to leave him at home with the run of the house for about 3 hours and no acidents and nothing destroyed 

Oreo is generall pretty good with his walk. He sniff ALOT. I generally don't let him sniff around until the end of our walk and let him play. I do let him pick up a branch or leaf to carry in his mouth like it's his mission to carry the thing home hahaha.

If he pulls ahead of me..I stop and wait till he looks at me. Oreo has learned that if I stick my 2 fingers out..he knows he's in trouble and stops whatever he is doing including jumping on people, biting and pulling on walks etc. He also responds to my verbal command..when I make a "shhhhhhhhhttt" sound..he also stops what he does and looks at me.

I'm going to be getting a great harness I saw a few weeks ago. Friend of mine part owns the Bark and Fritz in Coal Harbor and he carries THE easiest harness to put on for dogs. It's made by a local so i'm not sure if it's sold anywhere else.

Will try to post pics if I get the chance to go down and pick it up today.


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## Tom King (Aug 2, 2006)

Bumping this up so hopefully I will see it and won't forget to answer tomorrow.


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## miller123 (Aug 13, 2011)

Narci: High five! :whoo: miller is still being put in the crate when we go out, but he loves it.

J.J.'s mom: i will be purchasing one soon! thank you


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## Tom King (Aug 2, 2006)

It's NEVER okay of a dog to pull on a leash. If the dog goes to the end of the leash and pulls, it's because the handler is meeting the pressure with a pull on the other end.

Any dog needs to know how to walk on a loose leash close to its handler.

All walks don't have to be the same. Any dog needs to know how to walk on, on a loose leash, with the handler until the handlers says its okay to do something else. Other times its okay for the dog to snoop around. Any dog needs to know the difference.

This is one of those things that they don't do just because you want them to.

The leash is, more importantlly, a means of communication rather than a means of control.

Friends of ours have an 18 year old Jack Russell who had pulled on the leash for 15 years. On night when we were on a walk with these friends and Jackie, Pam asked if she could walk Jackie for a little bit. It took Pam about 50 feet walking Jackie before she was walking nicely beside Pam on a loose leash. Jackie has never pulled on the leash again, because right after Pam taught Jackie, she taught Sarah (Jackie's owner) how to use the leash.

I came up with our own system for teaching foals to lead on the first day after they were born. He retrained horses for years before we started breeding our own. Imagine having a horse that pulls on a lead line. Most do, and it's had to teach a 1,000 lb. one how after learning it wrong.

More later. We're still very busy around here. Reread my first two paragraphs here. Those are hard and fast rules.


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## miller123 (Aug 13, 2011)

thank you!


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

Tom you said ..." It's NEVER okay of a dog to pull on a leash. If the dog goes to the end of the leash and pulls, it's because the handler is meeting the pressure with a pull on the other end ." 
Not sure I understand this. This is true but inevitable the first time one goes for a walk. The idea is to stop at this point and not move until there is slack again. The mistake people make is allowing the dog to pull forward. Dogs pull because it is self-rewarding and natural. Like Drayton's article explains, there is always a degree of pulling when moving forward, it's a case of degree. Patience is what is the key. People give in at times and the dog never learns that pulling does not get him anywhere.


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## Clair&Bear (Nov 24, 2011)

davetgabby said:


> good to hear the housetraining is going good. Most don't LOL . I have a few good articles but read this one lately. It's Miller Time. http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/leash-walking-qa I like the part about smelling the roses. The walk should be fun and mentally stimulating for your dog. Unlike certain TV trainers, that promote regimental walking , there' s more to the walk than walking. Let your dog smell the roses sort of speak. Excercise and discipline are only part of the walk. Your dog wants stop and sniff, that's what dogs do. Could you imagine not being able to read your email. Well a dog wants to read his pee-mail. LOL The walk is primarily for the dog, in my opinion. It also has benefits for us. Dogs are not waterdowned wolves. But if anyone wants to draw an anology, I ask them , have you ever seen a wolf walk nonstop just to get excercise. ?


Sorry to hijack but thank you for this, Dave. I recently posted about Bear constantly "smelling the roses" and thought I was doing the wrong thing by letting her.



miller123 said:


> so miller is doing great, no slip ups in potty training for at least 3 weeks ect...
> but he is lacking in one area, when ever we go for a walk, he pulls alot, like i mean alot. So i was wondering if anybody has and ideas, i have already tried food, toys and gentile pulls on the leash. he hasn't responded to anything, so i was wondering if anybody has any opinions on the halti gentile leader or choke check collars. also if anybody has had this problem and how they solved them.
> 
> thanks


Maybe Miller could do with some professional lead training? Sorry, I don't have any idea about collars! Good luck


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## inlovewithhav (Feb 18, 2011)

Good comments from great sources and I am sorry to hear you are having issues with leash walking. I can only tell you what I do with my dogs (I have my little have Kipper whom is 9ish pounds and my big baby Sadie whom is 70ish pounds). I taught them both how to walk on a leash from the time I brought them home. Very simple: If they pull the lead I stop. I refuse to walk if they tug whatsoever. Once they calm down then we can continue. Sadie was trained on a collar and Kipp on a harness. It has worked for both dogs and they are excellent leash walkers..... again I am NOT an expert just wanted to let you know what has worked for me.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

inlovewithhav said:


> Good comments from great sources and I am sorry to hear you are having issues with leash walking. I can only tell you what I do with my dogs (I have my little have Kipper whom is 9ish pounds and my big baby Sadie whom is 70ish pounds). I taught them both how to walk on a leash from the time I brought them home. Very simple: If they pull the lead I stop. I refuse to walk if they tug whatsoever. Once they calm down then we can continue. Sadie was trained on a collar and Kipp on a harness. It has worked for both dogs and they are excellent leash walkers..... again I am NOT an expert just wanted to let you know what has worked for me.


Shelly, you said it all. It's that simple. And yet a number of people have problems. This is not rocket science. Dogs will learn quick if we just show them how to do it. Right also about the collar and harness. It really doesn't matter. The harness is safer, and in my opinion the only thing that should go on a dog.


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## inlovewithhav (Feb 18, 2011)

davetgabby said:


> Shelly, you said it all. It's that simple. And yet a number of people have problems. This is not rocket science. Dogs will learn quick if we just show them how to do it. Right also about the collar and harness. It really doesn't matter. The harness is safer, and in my opinion the only thing that should go on a dog.


We went to a puppy class when Kipper was a baby (like 11 mths and 360 days is not still a baby) and the lady there was showing the choke collar and the gentle leader for the dogs. I was mortified that she was showing to use it on a beagle puppy and a golden doodle puppy. I think the look on my face said it all when she approached me with the collars.... it basically said "come one step closer to me with that and i will lay you out"


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

inlovewithhav said:


> We went to a puppy class when Kipper was a baby (like 11 mths and 360 days is not still a baby) and the lady there was showing the choke collar and the gentle leader for the dogs. I was mortified that she was showing to use it on a beagle puppy and a golden doodle puppy. I think the look on my face said it all when she approached me with the collars.... it basically said "come one step closer to me with that and i will lay you out"


LMAO . Good for you Shelly. We need to let these people know what they are doing is inhumane not needed and detrimental to our dogs.


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## Diann (Apr 25, 2011)

inlovewithhav said:


> ...Very simple: If they pull the lead I stop. I refuse to walk if they tug whatsoever. Once they calm down then we can continue....


I haven't posted lately but needed some input on leash training. This topic was the first in the list so I didn't even have to search for it. So far so good!

I have heard of this method, stopping until they "calm" down, and I've even tried it but I have been unsuccessful. After I stop, Lucy will stand with the leash taught until I move or call her back to me and as soon as I take the second step she's at the end of the leash again. I am guilty in that I want to walk so we walk and I tug, say no, say yes for the moment she's in position, and then repeat. I think I'm missing something yet.

Do you remain silent and still until they move back towards you, sit down, or anything to loosen the taughtness of the leash? Do you call their name and praise them when they return to you and then go? I think i need a little micro-advice on what I do from the point of stopping and starting to walk again.

Thanks.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)




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## Tom King (Aug 2, 2006)

We don't even worry about trying to train a puppy to a leash, since it can be done at any time. I've seen Pam win two puppy classes (counting ones I can remember), with two different puppies- Nike was one, when the pup had never been on a leash before.

With small puppies, always use a harness, so they don't end up with any strong pressure on their neck. Puppies will be reckless at times.

Once you do feel the need for the puppy to know how to react on a leash, it's best to teach them correctly to start with.

The biggest problem I see with people trying to train any dog to a leash is that they train them to pull instead. Don't match the force on the leash when the dog pulls. Take him back with a bit more pressure. It's not a JERK but an explanation. NEVER let him pull. A short leash works best to start with. Start when they are ready to be active and not when they are lazy or too playful. Go with a bit more speed than normal to start with. A brisk walk is the best pace for teaching, with the dog close by your side. Use the leash to explain to the dog that it is supposed to stay close, moving at your chosen speed (choose wisely). 

Explanations need to be precisely timed, with the minimum amount of force, and the release quick. 

The INSTANT the dog starts to move ahead, to the side, slow down, or whatever away from where you want it, use the leash to explain (quickly) where they are supposed to stay during the walk. The INSTANT they comply, release the pressure.

This is much better explained while walking briskly, than standing still.

This part is the "training" part, and I don't think anyone who has not done it before, or who has had good instruction, can accomplish it quickly or easily the first time.

Never Jerk on the dog.

It's much easier to get someone who knows how to show you how to do it, than to learn how by reading about it.

They are welcome to snoop around when the time is appropriate, but walking calmly and correctly on leash should be a requirement for any dog to know how to do. The occasion may come up when it's necessary for their safety.

When I train a foal to lead, I do it in a stall so it can never pull on the lead line. I stand a little over half way across the stall so I'm holding maybe 7' of light line in a 12 x 12 stall. I can always give enough, the line is double the length of the space between us, and just looped through the halter, with one end in the palm of my hand, and the other end held between a couple of fingers. You never want a horse to think it can pull on a lead line. I put the slightest pressure on the line. The first thing the foal does is look at me. Prior to this: I've already spent time getting it used to the halter while it is sleepy after it has nursed and is starting to want to go to sleep, so it doesn't care at all that it has a halter on its head. The INSTANT it moves its nose to me to look at me, I release the pressure (very slight pull) so that it sees my hand move. He not only feels the release, but he sees it. Next I'll ask it to move its neck a little more to me. This is not a long session, but a few sessions later, after I get it to take a step and then 2 steps, I'll lead it to his Mother to nurse.

The most important part is the release, and that it understands that I will release the INSTANT he does. They learn very quickly. Horses are very much like dogs in that if they are taught correctly to start with, it makes life with them so much easier.

Our goal is to train correctly to start with, and not have to retrain. Fortunately, retraining a dog to lead properly is one of the easiest retrainings to do. It just has to be explained correctly with the leash. There's nothing verbal about it.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)




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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)




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## Clair&Bear (Nov 24, 2011)

davetgabby said:


> Dog Training Tip- Leash Walking: Go Sniff and Marking - YouTube


This has been a great help to me! 
I've been using "let's go" with Bear and she responds to it (most of the time!) but now I can incorporate the "go sniff" command to our walks. Thanks Dave!


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## Momo means Peach (Jun 7, 2011)

Dave, those videos are great! Momo has been making the leash taut lately and wondered what I could do to correct it.


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## Truffles (Jan 11, 2012)

Mine thinks she's a reindeer, 3 months old. I need help too


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

Truffles said:


> Mine thinks she's a reindeer, 3 months old. I need help too


Welcome to the forum. Feel free to introduce yourself. Here' the thread already started for this, http://www.havaneseforum.com/showthread.php?p=414451#post414451 What a good looking little girl you've got there.


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## Rosie Tomato (Jul 31, 2011)

*Is stopping & lagging behind the same as pulling?*

Just in the opposite direction?
I was considering buying the easy walk harness, but am wondering if it will help if Rosie Tomato's issue is stopping, or becoming reluctant to walk at certain places on the sidewalk, etc... She's always worn a step in harness.
Thanks in advance for the advice.
Debbie


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## narci (Sep 6, 2011)

See my thread on oreo's basic obedience.

Day 3 of using my trainers technique for leash walking and Oreo's shown a HUGE improvement. The leash is loose 85% of the time walking in urban streets and some side streets.

I look like an idiot when he pulls and i go the other way trying to excite oreo to follow me the other way and then praising him. 

I just started to use a Walkeez harness about a week and a half ago.


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## Truffles (Jan 11, 2012)

davetgabby said:


> Welcome to the forum. Feel free to introduce yourself. Here' the thread already started for this, http://www.havaneseforum.com/showthread.php?p=414451#post414451 What a good looking little girl you've got there.


Thank you, so how did you get that award? It's very cool.


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## Truffles (Jan 11, 2012)

narci said:


> See my thread on oreo's basic obedience.
> 
> Day 3 of using my trainers technique for leash walking and Oreo's shown a HUGE improvement. The leash is loose 85% of the time walking in urban streets and some side streets.
> 
> ...


You know I am taking Truffles to puppy class and tonite the instructor told us to wrap lah around your waist, then clip to dog harness. Turn like you would in leash training. it takes our habit of pulling away. Just thought it was interesting


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

Truffles said:


> Thank you, so how did you get that award? It's very cool.


 LOL , I didn't get the award , I was asked by the president of IPDTA to accept it on his behalf, as he was unable to attend the ceremonies. It was indeed an honor.


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## sprorchid (Mar 30, 2010)

I'm just going to share my experiences of what worked for me. I'm a harness fan till the pup learns not to pull. so much safer for them.

some things have been shared already. I do think what ever spot you want your dog to walk in relation to you on leash, whether it's a perfect heel or 1/2 body length in front of you, or behind you, you are training your dog to getting used to that position as normal, in relation to your body position, they are learning that your body position is a reference point.

the two most helpful techniques for me are:

1) just stop if they pull. originally I was taught to go in the opposite direction but this just became a game of chase, or just a game. I found just stopping much more effective. once the pup stops and looks back at you to check in, and you re-align yourself (to a heel or whatever) then you resume. 

2) treats on a stick. yup. stick a moist treat at the end of a 3 ft stick (like a pointer - you can get it at an art supply store) - so you don't have to bend over, and you can walk some what normally... so you hold it in front of the dog, at the walking position you want them to be in and after they take 5-10 paces, you let them have the treat, and reload the stick. This technique worked really well for me b/c my little guy is a pig in hav clothing. he even prances anytime I used this technique.

the most important thing to break the pulling is with whatever technique you use, you have to be consistent. pulling takes two to tango.

a pre-cursor skill which I found to be very helpful, what one of my trainers call the cafe sit or down. so you step on the leash, and then talk to someone. your dog will learn there is a terminal length to the leash and eventually settle down. if you hold the leash in you hand, while stationary (talking to someone, etc) and they pull a little, you naturally give a little more slack in the leash and the dog remembers this.


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