# Which Command First?



## DapperTuxedo (Apr 15, 2013)

We'll be picking Tux up on Saturday, and we will immediately begin training him. Our #1 priority is housetraining him, and the breeder reports that he's already got a good start. I'm planning to be introducing all of the major commands from the start, but I want to really hone in on one at a time. What is a good progression? Which should be taught first? This is what I was planning on:

Come
Sit
Stay
Down (as in Lie Down)
Off (as in Get Off of Someone or Something)
Leave it (let go of whatever's in your mouth)

Any that I'm missing? Do you think this is a good order of progression? What are you best training tips for a Hav?


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## Pipersmom (Jul 27, 2009)

So exciting!

This is the progression from our basic training class: (clicker training)

First charge the clicker-click, throw treat, click throw treat over and over to associate the clicker sound w/ treat.

1. The name game-wait for eye contact, click-treat( Repeat)
Name the behavior. Say dogs name, when he gives eye contact, click & toss treat (repeat)
Request the behavior-throw treat, call name and click & toss treat when he gives eye contact(repeat)
Now he knows his name and pays attention
2. sit
3. down
4. stay
5. come
6. leave it

Good Luck!


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## gelbergirl (Jun 9, 2007)

I started with him learning his name.


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Julie has a good plan for progression of training your puppy, but she's got the clicker charging a bit inside out. You want to teach the dog that the click is ALWAYS followed by the treat. So it's "click, throw/drop treat" not the other way around.

Also Julie is saying to throw or toss the treat. I know what she means, but I want to be clear in case you don't you don't quite understand what she's saying. You don't want to toss the treat any distance. You just want to drop or toss it far enough to break the pup's gaze away from you, so that you can practice getting his attention again.

I like the order of cues that Julie has given you, though I'd probably start on working on "leave it" and recall at the same time. (the further you get in training, the more different behaviors you will find that you are working on at the same time) I would also add "drop it" to the list. THis can be invaluable when your puppy (inevitably!) grabs something that either can hurt him or that he can damage!!! I would also add daily, short, car rides to the list right from the beginning. Too many people get slowed down by car sick dogs if they put off this training too far.

You can probably have the pup responding to his name, giving you (at least brief) attention, and doing sits and downs reliably within a week of him coming home. If you work on it in brief (1-2 minute at a time) sessions several times a day. But be aware that both "leave it" and and a solid recall take a LONG time to get solid. (as do the stays). very few experienced trainers will tell you their dog has a reliable recall in less than a year. With some dogs it can take much longer, and in ALL dogs it needs regular "maintenance" throughout the dog's life.

The BIG, and VITAL part of his early training that you haven't mentioned is socialization. I think you mentioned that you have read Ian Dunbar's books on puppy rearing, so you know how important he feels that socialization is. This is an area that I think too many small dog owners don't follow through enough, for fear that their puppy will get hurt by other puppies or will get sick. The window for socialization is closing by 16 weeks, and it is vitally important not to miss a moment of that time. MAKE SURE you enroll your pup in a good, well-run puppy K. But that's not enough either. Really make the effort to introduce your pup to new people (especially children and men!!!) every day. Also make sure that your pup has the opportunity to interact with well mannered, properly vaccinated, healthy dogs as often as possible. Again, daily is not too often! The more time you spend on this now, the easier it will be to incorporate your well-socialized dog into all areas of your life as he gets older! This should really be the main focus of training during the first few weeks of your pup's life. He will pick up the obedience stuff very quickly. Havs are smart!!!

It's fabulous that you are thinking of these things now. I think it's SO IMPORTANT that people start training their puppies early. The fact that you ask, though, makes me suspect that you haven't had a lot of dog training experience. If that is the case, you might find that a few private, in-home lessons with a good, positive based trainer will get you off on the right foot before you can get into you Puppy K class. Then, PLEASE consider continuing his education. Havanese are great pets, but they are also FABULOUS dogs for performance sports. They will happily sit on your couch and cuddle if that's all you expect from them. But there is a reason that they were used as circus dogs in Europe... They are very smart and they LOVE to work with the people they care about!!! They make fabulous obedience and agility dogs. And you will find that the more you work with your dog, the better relationship you develop!


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

I asked this very question to our IAABC forum a while back . I actually asked for their first five commands for a new puppy. I got no consensus on this . Definitely the ones you mentioned. After that I read this article by Cindy at DSD that made a lot of sense to me . http://www.dogstardaily.com/blogs/cindy-bruckart/why-are-you-teaching-your-dog


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## Pippi's mom (Mar 26, 2013)

I love how this is explained! I'm wondering though, if you can tell me how the best way to train recall? I'm a seasoned dog owner of large dogs but the only obedience classes we've participated in were ones using remote collars. It's very easy to recall a dog when you can shock them! But how do I best do it with a clicker. We don't use remote collars anymore even on our large dogs but I haven't had a puppy since retiring the collars so my training skills are rusty. Thanks for any and all advice!

Sent from Petguide.com Free App


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## DapperTuxedo (Apr 15, 2013)

Thanks, everyone!

We're planning to socialize Tux early and often. His first vet visit is Monday, so he'll meet a whole host of new humans that day. Then, his big doggie cousins will be coming over to playa couple of times a week. Both of our neighbors also have dogs that Tux will be introduced to quickly. (All dogs are up to date on shots.) 

Once we get name, attention, sit, and down all in order, I'll probably be posting again to ask for further direction.  Julie, thanks for reminding me about the clicker, and, Karen, thanks for clarifying it a bit.  Dave, thanks for mentioning Ian Dunbar's books in a different thread. I got some good info out of them.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

DapperTuxedo said:


> Thanks, everyone!
> 
> We're planning to socialize Tux early and often. His first vet visit is Monday, so he'll meet a whole host of new humans that day. Then, his big doggie cousins will be coming over to playa couple of times a week. Both of our neighbors also have dogs that Tux will be introduced to quickly. (All dogs are up to date on shots.)
> 
> Once we get name, attention, sit, and down all in order, I'll probably be posting again to ask for further direction.  Julie, thanks for reminding me about the clicker, and, Karen, thanks for clarifying it a bit.  Dave, thanks for mentioning Ian Dunbar's books in a different thread. I got some good info out of them.


good stuff , you're on your way.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

Pippi's mom said:


> I love how this is explained! I'm wondering though, if you can tell me how the best way to train recall? I'm a seasoned dog owner of large dogs but the only obedience classes we've participated in were ones using remote collars. It's very easy to recall a dog when you can shock them! But how do I best do it with a clicker. We don't use remote collars anymore even on our large dogs but I haven't had a puppy since retiring the collars so my training skills are rusty. Thanks for any and all advice!
> 
> Sent from Petguide.com Free App


good for you for retiring the shock collars. Here's an article I like on recall 
Recall Casey Lemanaco Getting Started Casey Lemanaco http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/recall-training-getting-started

Weeks three and four http://www.dogster.com/lifestyle/recall-training-stage-3


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## showelott (Oct 12, 2012)

I really like sue ailsby's training levels for clicker training. Her website is www.sue-eh.ca


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## sprorchid (Mar 30, 2010)

good staring list. I'd do 'look' or the 'attention' command first. If you want eye contact, you hold the treat close or you head or eyes, and say 'look'. then you chain it to the pup's name.

you prolly already knew that. I think down is harder than shake. shake and sit can be about same.

The other really useful behavior that I was taught in puppy class, and it's a direct command, but they call it the 'cafe sit or stay'.

what it is, is have your puppy on leash, in front of you, maybe a foot of slack. then put our foot on the leash, and either drop the leash or hold it in your hand.
you should do it with another person, so you two can chat. the puppy will quickly learn not to pull on the leash when you are stationary. eventually the pup will sit and then lay down. any time your pup is not pulling on the leash, you give him treats and verbal praise (or you can use the clicker if he's trained to it) based on a random time frame. this will tell him he's doing a preferred behavior.

also, you can use this technique to 'capture' the sit and stay. meaning you wait for the behavior you want to train, like sit or stay, and give it treat when it happens in real time.

once he learns it's a paying behavior you can put a word on hand signal to it.

good luck.


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## FinallyIvy (May 11, 2013)

Ivy is ten weeks. We are working on her name- which she now immediately responds to with attention and now more focus on "sit" which she is picking up quickly. Havanese are very smart dogs.


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