# Puppy Questions :)



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

I feel like I keep coming up with questions, so instead of starting a new thread every time I will just use this one! I'm going to start with only one question for now so nothing gets lost!

My roommate has a very...vocal dog. She barks when she's hungry, needs to pee, when she wants attention, when someone walks by, or for seemingly no reason at all. She is very loud (a 100 pound mix with a voice to match) and does not get anywhere near enough exercise. She isn't my dog, so theres not much I can do about her. Is there anything I can do to prevent my puppy from picking up the barking habit? I know that teaching the puppy to bark and quiet on command is good, but I really don't want him barking like this other dog does. 

Thanks!!


----------



## raeshan (Nov 18, 2013)

Unfortunately, it has been my experience that puppies learn from the older dogs around them. Hopefully, someone has some ideas and tips that I don't know about.

Sent from Petguide.com Free App


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Yeah, that's a tough one. iIt is VERY hard to teach a young dog to be quiet when there is an older one carrying on like that in the house.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

Will keeping them separate help at all? I will not be leaving the pup alone with the other dogs, since they are 80 and 100 pounds and could easily hurt him without meaning to  The other dog is pretty well behaved and only does normal alert barking.

Should I take him with me so he isn't around the other dog so much? I'm a student, so usually I'm only gone for 2-4 hours at a time. I don't know about leaving him in the car when I'm in class though :/ It is pretty temperate here but I'm still nervous about it.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Will keeping them separate help at all? I will not be leaving the pup alone with the other dogs, since they are 80 and 100 pounds and could easily hurt him without meaning to  The other dog is pretty well behaved and only does normal alert barking.
> 
> Should I take him with me so he isn't around the other dog so much? I'm a student, so usually I'm only gone for 2-4 hours at a time. I don't know about leaving him in the car when I'm in class though :/ It is pretty temperate here but I'm still nervous about it.


Leaving him in your car isn't a good option. Even if it doesn't get too hot (which can happen really easily and very quickly, you have to worry about "cute fluffy puppies getting stolen.

Keeping him out of hearing range of the other dog will definitely help&#8230; I'm just not sure how feasible it is. This may be something that you need to manage as well as you can while you are living with these people, and work on breaking the habit when you no longer live with them.

I would talk to a local, positive based trainer who can come and assess the whole situation in person, and give you specific management advice.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

I've picked out a positive, holistic, private trainer in case I need her  I'm assuming I will at some point! 
Second question: Clyde is coming home at 12/13 weeks. Is it ok to start him on walks right away? Maybe not to a dog park, but just around the cul de sac or whatever. Also, how long of walks can he go on? How does that increase as he grows? Will he say when he's had enough?


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> I've picked out a positive, holistic, private trainer in case I need her  I'm assuming I will at some point!
> Second question: Clyde is coming home at 12/13 weeks. Is it ok to start him on walks right away? Maybe not to a dog park, but just around the cul de sac or whatever. Also, how long of walks can he go on? How does that increase as he grows? Will he say when he's had enough?


He shouldn't be walked in public areas until after he has had all his puppy shots. The back yard, or with known, healthy dogs is fine.

I seem to remember that Kodi did fine around the block as soon as he was cleared by the vet. By 6 months he could walk for half an hour or so, and by a year, he walked anywhere we did!


----------



## DawnH (Jan 21, 2014)

I would never leave a dog in a car unattended even if the weather is good. Too many ways to get hurt by falling not to mention excessive barking/anxiety can lead to problems. I'm a retired police officer and nothing made me madder than finding a child or dog who'd been left in a car. It doesn't take long for a child or dog to overheat even if it isn't extremely hot...the combination of a little heat and anxious barking/panting/crying can lead to overheating in a matter of minutes.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

DawnH said:


> I would never leave a dog in a car unattended even if the weather is good. Too many ways to get hurt by falling not to mention excessive barking/anxiety can lead to problems. I'm a retired police officer and nothing made me madder than finding a child or dog who'd been left in a car. It doesn't take long for a child or dog to overheat even if it isn't extremely hot...the combination of a little heat and anxious barking/panting/crying can lead to overheating in a matter of minutes.


Well, they shouldn't be ABLE to fall, since they should either be confined in a crate or restrained in a car harness. 

And as far as barking and anxiety are concerned, that's a training issue.

MANY, if not most people who do trials and dog shows leave their dogs in the car at least some of the time. The dogs usually rest better and are more comfortable in their own surroundings. HOWEVER, we learn how to set the car up to manage heat, we check the dogs regularly and we DON'T part in public places where theft is a danger.

So I am not totally against leaving a dog in the car, but it has to be managed well, with LOTS of air flow, shade, either from a shady parking space (which you check often to make sure the sun isn't shifting) or a shade blanket for the car. I have a Mini Cooper with a hatch back and a sun roof. With the windows, hatch and roof open, it is no hotter in the car than it is outdoors. AND it has to be in a secure location, where the dog is safe from theft. Finally, the owner has to train the dog SLOWLY and CAREFULLY that the car is a safe place to stay, and that the owner will be back for them soon. This part is no different than crate training.


----------



## DawnH (Jan 21, 2014)

Karen, I guess I broke the cardinal rule by saying "never", but I was responding to a question concerning leaving a dog in a car on a college campus opposed to running into a store to pay for gas, ect. while my dog was in the car (secured in his crate). Not everyone secures their pets in the car so the risk is there. I should have articulated what I meant by "barking and anxiety" causing more problems...what I meant was that they can increase the risk factors in an over heated car. Even a well trained dog can resort to barking at strangers or become anxious in unusual circumstances that you're not there to control.

I can't speak for the show circuit...I've only attended shows as a spectator. Your description of the preparations you make as far as ventilation and parking sound like you've got a well thought out plan, but I'd still worry about thefts. And truthfully, I doubt that I'd leave my dog car even if there weren't just the threat of theft...Murphy seems to rule at my house and I'd be a wreck worrying that something would happen. The dog show scenario is apples to oranges to leaving a dog unattended in a public place like a college campus. Only an assumption but I'd assume that you are able to check on him frequently as well as the fact that you're in a place with other "dog people" who would recognize a problem. I guess I've seen one too many dogs and kids who were left in situations that could have had bad outcomes to trust leaving my own unattended.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

Haha I won't leave him in the car then! I do go to a small private school in the middle of a state park, so theft isn't a problem (its the kind of place where you leave your laptop sitting at the lunch table by itself while you go to the bathroom), but I didn't think it was right anyway.

Next question: Can he be around dogs that are vaccinated? I want him to be socialized and everything, can we go to my friend's house (she has two adult vaccinated dogs and cats)?


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

DawnH said:


> Karen, I guess I broke the cardinal rule by saying "never", but I was responding to a question concerning leaving a dog in a car on a college campus opposed to running into a store to pay for gas, ect. while my dog was in the car (secured in his crate). Not everyone secures their pets in the car so the risk is there. I should have articulated what I meant by "barking and anxiety" causing more problems...what I meant was that they can increase the risk factors in an over heated car. Even a well trained dog can resort to barking at strangers or become anxious in unusual circumstances that you're not there to control.
> 
> I can't speak for the show circuit...I've only attended shows as a spectator. Your description of the preparations you make as far as ventilation and parking sound like you've got a well thought out plan, but I'd still worry about thefts. And truthfully, I doubt that I'd leave my dog car even if there weren't just the threat of theft...Murphy seems to rule at my house and I'd be a wreck worrying that something would happen. The dog show scenario is apples to oranges to leaving a dog unattended in a public place like a college campus. Only an assumption but I'd assume that you are able to check on him frequently as well as the fact that you're in a place with other "dog people" who would recognize a problem. I guess I've seen one too many dogs and kids who were left in situations that could have had bad outcomes to trust leaving my own unattended.


I agree with you completely that leaving a dog in a car on a college campus is a very bad idea. I think I was the first person who responded that way. I just want people to realize that if you think things through CAREFULLY and take the proper precautions, there are times and places where it can be done safely.

Many of the show sites where people leave their dogs in cars are not easily seen/found by the general public. (if you don't know about the show, you don't know about the place. ) Also, everyone knows each other at trials, and we all watch out for each other, and each other's dogs. I actually DON'T crate in my car, but Kodi is small and so is his crate. I can always find a corner for his crate. But often people will arrive for an afternoon class with two Malamutes, let's say. Finding crating space for them inside, at that point in the day is often not possible.

You often can't keep your dog with you (even if you are crating indoors) and see what's going on, as they usually don't allow non-competing dogs too near the ring. (too distracting for the working dogs) Besides, dogs at trials NEED to be able to rest between classes, and they can't do that unless they are safely tucked in their crate, where ever it is.

Obedience and Rally trials tend to be quieter, but noise is also a factor. Sometimes dogs are very revved up at agility trials. Kodi don't do well if he ends up near a dog who is spinning and barking in it's crate. USUALLY, (again, because he's small) I can move him away from an annoyance like that, But if I couldn't, I WOULD leave him in the car where he could rest in peace and quiet.

I just wanted to make the point that someone who chooses to leave a dog CRATED in the car in THE RIGHT CIRCUMSTANCES is not necessarily making a bad decision. If it is thought through carefully and planned for properly, it can be done safely.

Again, we are TOTALLY on the same page as far as leaving a dog in the car at school, or at the mall. (incidentally, I've seen people leave dogs in the car in parking garages at malls. Yes, there is no chance of the car getting overheated there, but the chance of theft?!?! OMG! If you wouldn't leave your purse on the seat, don't leave your dog in the car.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Haha I won't leave him in the car then! I do go to a small private school in the middle of a state park, so theft isn't a problem (its the kind of place where you leave your laptop sitting at the lunch table by itself while you go to the bathroom), but I didn't think it was right anyway.
> 
> Next question: Can he be around dogs that are vaccinated? I want him to be socialized and everything, can we go to my friend's house (she has two adult vaccinated dogs and cats)?


Yes! You should DEFINITELY be introducing him to as many friendly, vaccinated dogs as possible, as well as lots and LOTS of people&#8230; including small children and men. Many dogs don't get introduced to enough men early enough, and end up wary of strange men all their lives. (same with small kids, if they don't happen to live with them)


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Here's a though, though, about school… If it's tat casual, if he were quiet in his crate, would the teachers allow you to bring his crate in and leave it in the back of the classroom with a blanket over it? Kodi will be absolutely quiet, not matter where I take him, set up like that.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

krandall said:


> Here's a though, though, about school&#8230; If it's tat casual, if he were quiet in his crate, would the teachers allow you to bring his crate in and leave it in the back of the classroom with a blanket over it? Kodi will be absolutely quiet, not matter where I take him, set up like that.


Maybe... I wouldn't ask right away though, I don't think I could count on him being absolutely quiet as a puppy, could I? I don't think they would let me though, they are pretty into making sure people's allergies aren't bothered (you can't even wear perfume on campus). They did once offer a seminar on holistic first aid for dogs and cats though  I'll keep the idea in mind if/when he is that reliable.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Maybe... I wouldn't ask right away though, I don't think I could count on him being absolutely quiet as a puppy, could I? I don't think they would let me though, they are pretty into making sure people's allergies aren't bothered (you can't even wear perfume on campus). They did once offer a seminar on holistic first aid for dogs and cats though  I'll keep the idea in mind if/when he is that reliable.


No, unless the breeder does a LOT of crate training for you. (I know he's staying there a little longer than usual) But typically, it does take a while to get them comfortable with staying in their crates. There is a great training program available on DVD called "Crate Games" by Susan Garrett. That helped me TREMENDOUSLY in getting Kodi to love his create!


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

krandall said:


> Yes! You should DEFINITELY be introducing him to as many friendly, vaccinated dogs as possible, as well as lots and LOTS of people&#8230; including small children and men. Many dogs don't get introduced to enough men early enough, and end up wary of strange men all their lives. (same with small kids, if they don't happen to live with them)


Awesome, I can do that. I one of my roommates is a guy, and another roommate has a guy that comes over a lot. I'm sure I can get some of my guy friends to come over too. I only know one person with a kid (the kid is 6), but there is a park 5 minutes from my house, so I can take him there once he's vaccinated. When he is housetrained, I can likely bring him to the place I go swing dancing on Friday nights, since the owner has his Maltese there alot. That Maltese is one of the most well behaved dogs I've ever met


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

krandall said:


> No, unless the breeder does a LOT of crate training for you. (I know he's staying there a little longer than usual) But typically, it does take a while to get them comfortable with staying in their crates. There is a great training program available on DVD called "Crate Games" by Susan Garrett. That helped me TREMENDOUSLY in getting Kodi to love his create!


Awesome! I just put a hold on it at the library


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

Thanks guys for all your advice! Next question  
For potty training, I live in a house so I want to potty train outside. However, I would also like an indoor option for the middle of the night, when its gross out, or when I'm not there. He is currently potty trained on newspaper at the breeder's, but I don't want him thinking that all paper is a toilet! Anyway, there are two options that I can see. One is the potty pads, and the other is a plastic kitty litter bin with grass in it. What should I do? Is there another option I didn't think of that might be better?


----------



## Sarahdee (Apr 5, 2012)

We trained Millie to use a litter box with pine pellets in it. The litter box is called the rascal dog and we buy the pine pellets from the tractor supply store for $6 for a 40 pound bag. We tried to use the grate on the rascal dog at first but Millie didn't like. She was trained to go on the pellets in one day. The rascal dog can also hold a pee pad and can come with grass so it is very versatile. If you look on the website, we got the big squirt.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Sarahdee said:


> We trained Millie to use a litter box with pine pellets in it. The litter box is called the rascal dog and we buy the pine pellets from the tractor supply store for $6 for a 40 pound bag. We tried to use the grate on the rascal dog at first but Millie didn't like. She was trained to go on the pellets in one day. The rascal dog can also hold a pee pad and can come with grass so it is very versatile. If you look on the website, we got the big squirt.


That's what we use too. We did try the grass mat that comes with the Rascal Dog, but it very quickly got so smelly, no matter WHAT we tried to wash it with, we couldn't stad having it in the house. So we went back to just the wood pellets. Theyre cheap, easy to claean up, and biodegradeable, so can go right in the compost pile.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

So could I just do a normal litter box with the pellets? Seems kinda silly to pay $60 for the product if I'm not going to use the grass and everything! Also, can dog urine go in the compost?

Maybe something like this? Amazon.com: Argee RG155 Table-Top Gardener Portable Potting Tray: Patio, Lawn & Garden


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Well, a regular cat litter box has too deep a lip for most Havanese puppies... And when he gets a little bigger, the box will be too small. You don't have to buy the fake grass... They sell that separately now. I know Tom King said they found some large flat pans at Tractor Supply Store that seemed to work pretty well. Maybe for mixing cement? I can't remember for sure. 

And yes, dog urine can certainly go in the compost pile!


----------



## Cuddles (Jan 22, 2014)

*Leaving dogs in car*

A quick warning to contribute, my friend left her dog in the car with the car running. Her dog stepped on the lock and locked her out

I once did the same, car running, AC on Cuddles in the car, she stepped on the window and lowered the window. I am blessed she did not jump out or have someone steal her


----------



## Cuddles (Jan 22, 2014)

bonnieanclyde said:


> So could I just do a normal litter box with the pellets? Seems kinda silly to pay $60 for the product if I'm not going to use the grass and everything! Also, can dog urine go in the compost?
> 
> Maybe something like this? Amazon.com: Argee RG155 Table-Top Gardener Portable Potting Tray: Patio, Lawn & Garden


Yes, please anything but puppy pads. They wind up in the land fills. 
Best of luck. I used this site to compare litter boxes, http://puppylitterboxes.com. 
The turf from the piddle place gets the best ratings for being most porous, but if the mat sits directly in the urine, that would be a mess.


----------



## Cuddles (Jan 22, 2014)

krandall said:


> That's what we use too. We did try the grass mat that comes with the Rascal Dog, but it very quickly got so smelly, no matter WHAT we tried to wash it with, we couldn't stad having it in the house. So we went back to just the wood pellets. Theyre cheap, easy to claean up, and biodegradeable, so can go right in the compost pile.


Agree Karen. Thank you


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Cuddles said:


> A quick warning to contribute, my friend left her dog in the car with the car running. Her dog stepped on the lock and locked her out
> 
> I once did the same, car running, AC on Cuddles in the car, she stepped on the window and lowered the window. I am blessed she did not jump out or have someone steal her


Why were the dogs loose in the car? That's not safe, whether you are in the car with them or not.


----------



## Cuddles (Jan 22, 2014)

krandall said:


> Well, a regular cat litter box has too deep a lip for most Havanese puppies... And when he gets a little bigger, the box will be too small. You don't have to buy the fake grass... They sell that separately now. I know Tom King said they found some large flat pans at Tractor Supply Store that seemed to work pretty well. Maybe for mixing cement? I can't remember for sure.
> 
> And yes, dog urine can certainly go in the compost pile!


Karen, what do you use to restrain the dog in the car. Heck, my dog wants to drive! Please advise I will search here for recommendations


----------



## Cuddles (Jan 22, 2014)

krandall said:


> Why were the dogs loose in the car? That's not safe, whether you are in the car with them or not.


Karen, I'm never going to figure out this computer thing. Posted a response in wrong place. Please let me know what you recommend to restrain dog in the car. Of course she should be As safe as my children.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Cuddles said:


> Karen, what do you use to restrain the dog in the car. Heck, my dog wants to drive! Please advise I will search here for recommendations


They should either be in a crate or in a car harness, attached to a seatbelt. It is not safe for the dog or the people in the car for a dog to be loose. In a fairly minor accident, the dog can be killed, or can become a flying missile that hits a human in the head, injuring both.

A loose dog can CAUSE an accident too, by jumping on the driver or getting under the driver's feet or interfering with the steering wheel. Even interfering with the driver's attention is dangerous.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Cuddles said:


> Karen, I'm never going to figure out this computer thing. Posted a response in wrong place. Please let me know what you recommend to restrain dog in the car. Of course she should be As safe as my children.


You didn't respond in the wrong place!


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

OK, so seems like the piddle place is one option, and a large litter tray with a low entrance with pine pellets is the other. I like that the piddle place has the spout to dispose of urine, compared to the rascal dog. But I like not dealing with liquid pee at all even better! Also the pine pellet option seems much cheaper, at least for the starting cost.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> OK, so seems like the piddle place is one option, and a large litter tray with a low entrance with pine pellets is the other. I like that the piddle place has the spout to dispose of urine, compared to the rascal dog. But I like not dealing with liquid pee at all even better! Also the pine pellet option seems much cheaper, at least for the starting cost.


Yeah the idea of having a tank full of urine sitting in my kitchen is a bit of a stomach turner for me.


----------



## SJ1998 (Feb 4, 2013)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Awesome! I just put a hold on it at the library


I took a class in that - it was amazing. It not only teaches your dog to love the crate, but self control that is useful in so many other ways.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

krandall said:


> Yeah the idea of having a tank full of urine sitting in my kitchen is a bit of a stomach turner for me.


Yeah, mine would be in the bathroom but it's still pretty gross. I think I'd rather deal with the pellets! Only problem is I can't get them from the tractor supply store because the nearest one is 460 miles away - not gonna happen!


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Yeah, mine would be in the bathroom but it's still pretty gross. I think I'd rather deal with the pellets! Only problem is I can't get them from the tractor supply store because the nearest one is 460 miles away - not gonna happen!


Ummmm, Yeah, that doesn't sound convenient! I didn't look closely at the one you posted from Amazon to see the size, but it's definitely the right shape.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

krandall said:


> Ummmm, Yeah, that doesn't sound convenient! I didn't look closely at the one you posted from Amazon to see the size, but it's definitely the right shape.


It's 2 feet by 1.5 feet and 6 inches deep


----------



## MarinaGirl (Mar 25, 2012)

You don't have to drive that far to get pine pellets as there are tractor supply stores in Everett, Snohomish, and Auburn. I also looked online and All The Best (Seattle-based pet store with locations in Edmonds, Greenwood, Ballard, Bellevue...) carries these products:

Integrity Pine Pellets (pine)
Cat Country Elite (wheat grass pellets)

And it looks like petco also carries pellets as does Home Depot & Loews. And there may be other pet store options in the area too.

-Jeanne-


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

MarinaGirl said:


> You don't have to drive that far to get pine pellets as there are tractor supply stores in Everett, Snohomish, and Auburn. I also looked online and All The Best (Seattle-based pet store with locations in Edmonds, Greenwood, Ballard, Bellevue...) carries these products:
> 
> Integrity Pine Pellets (pine)
> Cat Country Elite (wheat grass pellets)
> ...


Awesome! Is there a best brand (as far as smell goes)? Also, how long does a bag last?


----------



## Cuddles (Jan 22, 2014)

I never thought of that. We are on a road trip today and I have my dog on my lap, and I am trying on my iPad. You are so right! I thought my holding her would work, I felt guilty and she crystal in the back seat. What size harness do you buy? She is still quite small. I will look at the store tomorrow. Are they adjustable? Could I use our old baby seat? She's my baby now 😘


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Cuddles said:


> I never thought of that. We are on a road trip today and I have my dog on my lap, and I am trying on my iPad. You are so right! I thought my holding her would work, I felt guilty and she crystal in the back seat. What size harness do you buy? She is still quite small. I will look at the store tomorrow. Are they adjustable? Could I use our old baby seat? She's my baby now &#128536;


No, you cannot use a child seat. And not all harnesses are meant for use as a car harness, so make sure tou get a car harness, not a walking harness. Some people buy dog "booster seats", but that is not necessary for safety. Kodi sits in a round "donut" type dog bed on the seat of the car, but with the seatbelt through his car harness.

The other safe choice is to keep the dog in a crate in the car, and make sure the crate is secured so it can't bounce around.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

Ok, well if anyone has recommendations for pine pellet brands that aren't too expensive and smell decent let me know 

Next question is about food. I seem to read a lot of different things on this forum. I would love to do raw, but the prepackaged options like ziwipeak are out of my budget at the moment. What about U-stew? The cost of it seems similar to the cost of a quality kibble, and I don't mind making it (it sounds pretty easy) I do have concerns though. Shouldn't the meat be raw? Would it be better to leave it raw than cook it? Also, I was hoping to use food as treats for crate training, etc. but this looks like it would be a mess used in that way.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Ok, well if anyone has recommendations for pine pellet brands that aren't too expensive and smell decent let me know
> 
> Next question is about food. I seem to read a lot of different things on this forum. I would love to do raw, but the prepackaged options like ziwipeak are out of my budget at the moment. What about U-stew? The cost of it seems similar to the cost of a quality kibble, and I don't mind making it (it sounds pretty easy) I do have concerns though. Shouldn't the meat be raw? Would it be better to leave it raw than cook it? Also, I was hoping to use food as treats for crate training, etc. but this looks like it would be a mess used in that way.


I talked to the people at U-stew because I was interested in it. I can't use it for Kodi, because one of their ingredients is beef liver powder, and Kodi is beef intolerant. (not a common problem, so don't worry about it in general!) They did tell me that none of their ingredients are sourced from China, which was a main concern for me.

My understanding is that you can mix it with raw or cooked meat. Raw is preferable, as cooking does remove some nutrients. But the people were very responsive. I'd say e-mail them directly and ask your questions!

As far as using food as treats or in Kongs, my favorite commercial food for treats is Nature's Variety freeze dried bits. These are small (only a little larger than kibble) pieces, and easy to chew. And they are great quality food! They would be expensive to use as a complete diet, but they work great to use for training treats, and would be easy to stuff a Kong with. Just make sure you work those calories into his complete diet! (Ziwi Peaks can be used this way too)


----------



## Cuddles (Jan 22, 2014)

krandall said:


> I talked to the people at U-stew because I was interested in it. I can't use it for Kodi, because one of their ingredients is beef liver powder, and Kodi is beef intolerant. (not a common problem, so don't worry about it in general!) They did tell me that none of their ingredients are sourced from China, which was a main concern for me.
> 
> My understanding is that you can mix it with raw or cooked meat. Raw is preferable, as cooking does remove some nutrients. But the people were very responsive. I'd say e-mail them directly and ask your questions!
> 
> As far as using food as treats or in Kongs, my favorite commercial food for treats is Nature's Variety freeze dried bits. These are small (only a little larger than kibble) pieces, and easy to chew. And they are great quality food! They would be expensive to use as a complete diet, but they work great to use for training treats, and would be easy to stuff a Kong with. Just make sure you work those calories into his complete diet! (Ziwi Peaks can be used this way too)


Agree with the Kong. It such a simple idea. When I leave for work, I give her a Kong with a treat inside. I can sneak out the door, and she hardly notices I am leaving. Before that she would whine when I was leaving. Great product


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

The u stew would probably be ok in the kong, especially if I froze it... Ian Dunbar's book says to feed their food as treats or in Kongs for a while, while makes a lot of sense. I do want him to work a bit for his food since thats natures way! I hadn't thought about doing a mix, thats true it would be easy to do that. I found a way to calculate calorie needs, so that would go along well. I also want to do some raw bones, and I live down the street from a butcher, and my roommate says he is very reasonable. I could also ask for some organ meats. Would pieces of hard boiled egg be good treats too? Or bits of cooked meat? (I don't fancy carrying raw meat around for treats!) My roommate uses sweet potato sometimes! :laugh:

The breeder sent me an info packet, and in it there seems to be a lot of tips for puppies who won't eat. It seemed like that was more likely if they were shipped, but is that common? Should I worry about it I guess is my question. How can I make his transition as easy as possible? (I plan to get one of those stuffed toys that is warm and has a heart beat sound)


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> The u stew would probably be ok in the kong, especially if I froze it... Ian Dunbar's book says to feed their food as treats or in Kongs for a while, while makes a lot of sense. I do want him to work a bit for his food since thats natures way! I hadn't thought about doing a mix, thats true it would be easy to do that. I found a way to calculate calorie needs, so that would go along well. I also want to do some raw bones, and I live down the street from a butcher, and my roommate says he is very reasonable. I could also ask for some organ meats. Would pieces of hard boiled egg be good treats too? Or bits of cooked meat? (I don't fancy carrying raw meat around for treats!) My roommate uses sweet potato sometimes! :laugh:
> 
> The breeder sent me an info packet, and in it there seems to be a lot of tips for puppies who won't eat. It seemed like that was more likely if they were shipped, but is that common? Should I worry about it I guess is my question. How can I make his transition as easy as possible? (I plan to get one of those stuffed toys that is warm and has a heart beat sound)


I would never, ever ship a puppy, and the breeders I know well would't either, so I can't address that directly. It wouldn't surprise me, however, if puppies who were shipped had a harder transition.

From what I've seen, lots of people turn their Havs INTO picky eaters by worrying and catering to their whims. Choose a good food source and stick to your guns. If they haven't eaten in 15 minutes, pick it up, and they don't get ANYTHING until the next scheduled meal time. They won't starve themselves. I think people don't take into consideration their size, either, and think they should be eating more than they need. If you insist, all you end up with is a fat dog.

And yes, eggs and lean cooked meats are good nutrition. I think eggs would be awfully messy as training treats (though I'm sure Kodi would approve, since eggs are a FAVORITE!!!) but roasted meats cut up small make EXCELLENT training treats.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

Ok, good I won't worry too much about it. I think eggs and meat would be cheaper and pretty easy to use as training treats  I might get some of the Natures Instinct or Ziwipeak for special occasions or when I don't have anything prepared! How long after he comes here should I transition foods? I don't want to keep him on the old stuff for long, but I also don't want to transition him too soon after the big change in environment


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

I'd keep him on what he comes with for a couple of weeks, until you're sure he's settled in. A couple more weeks won't hurt him!


----------



## MarinaGirl (Mar 25, 2012)

Here's an old thread on how to make your own chicken jerky by dehydrating meat in the oven. Makes great training treats.

http://www.havaneseforum.com/showthread.php?t=31586&highlight=dehydrator

-Jeanne-


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

I'm a bit worried about him eating the wood pellets from the litter pan when I'm gone and choking. Am I just being paranoid?


----------



## Serenissima (Feb 26, 2014)

Cuddles said:


> I never thought of that. We are on a road trip today and I have my dog on my lap, and I am trying on my iPad. You are so right! I thought my holding her would work, I felt guilty and she crystal in the back seat. What size harness do you buy? She is still quite small. I will look at the store tomorrow. Are they adjustable? Could I use our old baby seat? She's my baby now &#128536;





krandall said:


> No, you cannot use a child seat. And not all harnesses are meant for use as a car harness, so make sure tou get a car harness, not a walking harness. Some people buy dog "booster seats", but that is not necessary for safety. Kodi sits in a round "donut" type dog bed on the seat of the car, but with the seatbelt through his car harness.
> 
> The other safe choice is to keep the dog in a crate in the car, and make sure the crate is secured so it can't bounce around.


My neighbours have a sleepypod air and I just got one for Simcoe to come home in this weekend - definitely pricey, but sleepypods are the only carrier on the market that are tested to standard in the way that children's car seats are and if your Hav is on the slightly smaller side, I know some people use them as their day to day crate as well. The quality is outstanding, I know another person with the original sleepypod for their Chihuahua that uses the bottom as their bed and they've had it going on four years and it still looks brand new. Worth the investment, in my opinion.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> I'm a bit worried about him eating the wood pellets from the litter pan when I'm gone and choking. Am I just being paranoid?


Kodi has never eaten pellets execpt when he has had an upset stomach from something else. So it's not an every day occurrance, but it is a concern. That's another thing I like about the Rascal Dog. I just throw the grate over the litter when I won't be home. That way I don't have to worry about it.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

Hey! Haven't had a question in a while  Thank you everyone for your help! I've been looking at leashes, and already have a 6 foot nylon (thats what we raised our family dog with and I love them) and a long lead (handmedown from my family dog). I've heard about bungee leashes too. Are these good enough to spend the extra money for them? What are the advantages if so?


----------



## Naturelover (Nov 30, 2013)

Serenissima said:


> My neighbours have a sleepypod air and I just got one for Simcoe to come home in this weekend - definitely pricey, but sleepypods are the only carrier on the market that are tested to standard in the way that children's car seats are and if your Hav is on the slightly smaller side, I know some people use them as their day to day crate as well. The quality is outstanding, I know another person with the original sleepypod for their Chihuahua that uses the bottom as their bed and they've had it going on four years and it still looks brand new. Worth the investment, in my opinion.


My little Hav is supposed to end up around 12 lbs. From all the carriers I looked at it seems like they would be too small for them. Anyone else have a 12 lb Hav and what carriers to you use for around-town travel and air travel?

Thanks!


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Hey! Haven't had a question in a while  Thank you everyone for your help! I've been looking at leashes, and already have a 6 foot nylon (thats what we raised our family dog with and I love them) and a long lead (handmedown from my family dog). I've heard about bungee leashes too. Are these good enough to spend the extra money for them? What are the advantages if so?


No, I would definitely NOT use a bungee leash. The goal should be to teach your dog to walk on a loose lead. If he darts off (he will... He's a puppy) a bungee leash STILL doesn't have enough "give" to ptotect his neck and throat. That's why all little dogs (all dogs, actually, but it's even more important for the little ones) should be walked on a harness, not a collar.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

krandall said:


> No, I would definitely NOT use a bungee leash. The goal should be to teach your dog to walk on a loose lead. If he darts off (he will... He's a puppy) a bungee leash STILL doesn't have enough "give" to ptotect his neck and throat. That's why all little dogs (all dogs, actually, but it's even more important for the little ones) should be walked on a harness, not a collar.


Yeah, I have a harness too. I have a flat collar for training, and a harness for walking.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> Yeah, I have a harness too. I have a flat collar for training, and a harness for walking.


Then ir aounds like tou have what tou need! When he gets PAST the chewing stage, if you want a fancier leash, I can give you some suggestions. But right now, there is no need to let him eat a good, expensive, leather leash!


----------



## SJ1998 (Feb 4, 2013)

He will probably chew the expensive leash anyway...I speak from personal experience!


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

SJ1998 said:


> He will probably chew the expensive leash anyway...I speak from personal experience!


Yup. There is a direct correlation&#8230; the more expensive the leash, the faster it will get eaten.  Even now, Kodi can't be trusted left alone with my nicest leashes. He won't try to chew them while we're working, but if one is left within reach in the house or car&#8230; game over! :frusty:

Oh, and when he was a puppy, he even chewed through several nylon leashes! So he didn't get a "nice" leash until we started showing.


----------



## Sarahdee (Apr 5, 2012)

Millie only chews on the pellets when she has an upset stomach also. I only notice when I notice that she threw up and it's all saw dusty. She will randomly pick up a pellet and chew on it because she is teething. They are really small though so I've never worried about her choking on one.


----------



## Serenissima (Feb 26, 2014)

Naturelover said:


> My little Hav is supposed to end up around 12 lbs. From all the carriers I looked at it seems like they would be too small for them. Anyone else have a 12 lb Hav and what carriers to you use for around-town travel and air travel?
> 
> Thanks!


Simcoe is 11 pounds right now and although I have to make her lie down to zip it up, she can stand once it's zipped because the mesh is fairly forgiving. In terms of other carriers, the blog dogjaunt has a fairly good rundown of a LOT of different models, but you'll find with an almost across the board height restriction of 10.5 inches, most larger small dogs won't be able to stand in their plane friendly carriers. Hope this helps!


----------



## emichel (May 3, 2012)

krandall said:


> There is a direct correlation&#8230; the more expensive the leash, the faster it will get eaten.


I've been considering buying Benjamin one of those beautiful Stibbar braided leashes that you like, Karen, for his second birthday coming up next month. Two things are holding me up. The biggest is deciding on color combinations, especially which would look nicest with my favorite Lupine harness (greens and blues, tail feather pattern). I don't know if I'll ever be able to decide, and can't really justify buying 5 of them. There is also the fact that I do not trust that he would not chew on it! He has come a _long_ way from chewing like he did as a puppy. Doesn't bother shoes, will still chew through an easy walk harness if it's hanging loose in the front and is left on him after a walk (both of which should never happen but have been known to!), and leashes hardly ever. Not that long ago, though, I met a friend on one of our walks and while we were chatting I noticed that he _was_ trying to chew his leash! Just a plain nylon one, but jeesh, I thought he was past it. Those leather ones, I'm sure, would be quite scrumptious to chew on. Karen, have you noticed that Kodi shows an interest in chewing on this one more so than on plain old leashes? Of course I would take great care with it, but I'm not sure I need to have another thing around that I need to take great care with -- the eyeglasses cost way more than these leashes! I was actually pleasantly surprised at the cost, considering the apparent quality and workmanship. OK, I will buy him one, but I'm not sure I can decide on color before next month.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

emichel said:


> I've been considering buying Benjamin one of those beautiful Stibbar braided leashes that you like, Karen, for his second birthday coming up next month. Two things are holding me up. The biggest is deciding on color combinations, especially which would look nicest with my favorite Lupine harness (greens and blues, tail feather pattern). I don't know if I'll ever be able to decide, and can't really justify buying 5 of them. There is also the fact that I do not trust that he would not chew on it! He has come a _long_ way from chewing like he did as a puppy. Doesn't bother shoes, will still chew through an easy walk harness if it's hanging loose in the front and is left on him after a walk (both of which should never happen but have been known to!), and leashes hardly ever. Not that long ago, though, I met a friend on one of our walks and while we were chatting I noticed that he _was_ trying to chew his leash! Just a plain nylon one, but jeesh, I thought he was past it. Those leather ones, I'm sure, would be quite scrumptious to chew on. Karen, have you noticed that Kodi shows an interest in chewing on this one more so than on plain old leashes? Of course I would take great care with it, but I'm not sure I need to have another thing around that I need to take great care with -- the eyeglasses cost way more than these leashes! I was actually pleasantly surprised at the cost, considering the apparent quality and workmanship. OK, I will buy him one, but I'm not sure I can decide on color before next month.


I am sad to say that Kodi has eaten two collars (fortunately, they're not too expensive) and the handle of a leash. (which I was able to get replaced by the local cobbler) In ALL cases, that has been when a family member has practically said, "Here, Kodi! Have a snack!" by leaving it on the floor for him. So it hasn't been TOTALLY his fault. I don't think he is any more interested in chewing them than any other leather leash.

I solves the color problem by getting three sets.  He has silver and black, gold and black and metallic red and black. 

And to go with that harness pattern, (which is REALLY pretty!) I'd go with Italian green and metallic royal blue!


----------



## emichel (May 3, 2012)

krandall said:


> And to go with that harness pattern, (which is REALLY pretty!) I'd go with Italian green and metallic royal blue!


The Italian green and metallic royal would look great w/the tail feathers design! I also like blue with metallic turquoise, and black w/metallic silver -- probably with a plain black harness and collar, though. I think I've pulled the thread sideways a bit -- Bonnie, we're still waiting for you to bring home your puppy! I'll just finish up my thought, and will start a new post about pretty leashes and collars another time (since I'm supposed to be working right now). I'm thinking about getting collars instead of leashes right now, still havent decided for sure. Maybe will just get 2 collars in 2 of the 3 different color combos mentioned above, and get matching leashes later. Between the Lupine patterns and the Stibbar color combinations, we have the option of making our dogs look downright psychedelic!  I'll see if it will work to copy and paste some of the color combos from each website on to here -- after hours.


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

emichel said:


> The Italian green and metallic royal would look great w/the tail feathers design! I also like blue with metallic turquoise, and black w/metallic silver -- probably with a plain black harness and collar, though. I think I've pulled the thread sideways a bit -- Bonnie, we're still waiting for you to bring home your puppy! I'll just finish up my thought, and will start a new post about pretty leashes and collars another time (since I'm supposed to be working right now). I'm thinking about getting collars instead of leashes right now, still havent decided for sure. Maybe will just get 2 collars in 2 of the 3 different color combos mentioned above, and get matching leashes later. Between the Lupine patterns and the Stibbar color combinations, we have the option of making our dogs look downright psychedelic!  I'll see if it will work to copy and paste some of the color combos from each website on to here -- after hours.


I like reading all this stuff too  I should be bringing him home in just about a week. Getting a bit nervous :/


----------



## Serenissima (Feb 26, 2014)

bonnieanclyde said:


> I like reading all this stuff too  I should be bringing him home in just about a week. Getting a bit nervous :/


Don't be nervous! I'm also in school and making it work. Granted, I skipped the small puppy stage but you'll be surprised how quickly you'll fall in love. I know you'll do just fine :biggrin1:


----------



## Alcibides (Feb 14, 2012)

My dh is always pushing to leave Lucky in the car (he travels in a crate-Lucky that is, not my dh) just while we run into a store for a very short time etc. But I'm apprehensive and tend to leave him (with ventilation and on days with mild temps) no more than 5 minutes at a time. The thought of leaving a puppy in a car for two hours just seems dangerous to me. Kids can taunt from outside the car; the dog could be startled and frightened by something outside, and an unexpected change in temp might mean the difference between safe and unsafe. I've come out of the post office to see a few kids admiring the dog from the window...what if they got silly and banged on the side of the windows...can hardly imagine a safe enough place to leave my dog in the cars....what if I lose my keys and he's locked insider till I get help? Think you get the picture. Good luck with your own decision on this.


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

emichel said:


> The Italian green and metallic royal would look great w/the tail feathers design! I also like blue with metallic turquoise, and black w/metallic silver -- probably with a plain black harness and collar, though. I think I've pulled the thread sideways a bit -- Bonnie, we're still waiting for you to bring home your puppy! I'll just finish up my thought, and will start a new post about pretty leashes and collars another time (since I'm supposed to be working right now). I'm thinking about getting collars instead of leashes right now, still havent decided for sure. Maybe will just get 2 collars in 2 of the 3 different color combos mentioned above, and get matching leashes later. Between the Lupine patterns and the Stibbar color combinations, we have the option of making our dogs look downright psychedelic!  I'll see if it will work to copy and paste some of the color combos from each website on to here -- after hours.


Well, on Kodi, the collars don't really show because of his long hair. But _I_ know whether he's "color coordinated" or not!


----------



## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

bonnieanclyde said:


> I like reading all this stuff too  I should be bringing him home in just about a week. Getting a bit nervous :/


Don't be nervous&#8230; you're going to have a blast!!! (and share lots and LOTS of pictures with us, _*RIGHT*_? )


----------



## bonnieanclyde (Jan 28, 2014)

Here he is! A little sweetheart  If you are in the Seattle area, I'd love it if you sent me a PM so we can meet and play! If you want to follow us on instagram feel free to send me a PM as well


----------



## Pucks104 (Aug 16, 2012)

Awe, sweet little puppy! Enjoy!


----------



## Serenissima (Feb 26, 2014)

Aww Bonnie you have a little black and white cutie as well! There's actually a chance I'll be coming to Seattle to visit a family friend this summer so I'll keep you posted!


----------

