# SELECTING A REPUTABLE BREEDER



## 31818 (Oct 29, 2014)

HF has been getting a lot of inquiries about breeders and finding Havanese puppies during this last year. I am posting below a rather long essay from a reputable breeder I admire with a comprehensive list of what to look for in a Reputable Breeder and how to distinguish them from a Back Yard Breeder (BYB).

Yes, this post is long. It is just one part of your homework in choosing a reputable Havanese breeder. If you aren't willing to do your homework with research and questions, YOU SHOULDN'T CONSIDER A HAVANESE PUPPY!

A Havanese from a reputable dealer will be relatively expensive, usually costing several thousand dollars. Be prepared to spend as much as you paid for your puppy in annual maintenance expenses (feeding, grooming, treats, equipment, toys, Vet, etc.), EACH YEAR to keep them in top condition!

For those of you looking for a reputable breeder, I recommend you read this carefully and thoroughly.

*****

*A Few Guidelines for Selecting a Havanese Breeder*

1. A reputable breeder will not breed dogs under the age of 2.

2. A reputable Havanese breeder will conduct (and can provide proof of) the following genetic health tests on their breeding animals and will require them of the sire (father) should they "hire" a stud dog for the litter:

BAER (Hearing)
CERF (eyes) yearly
OFA (for hip displasia & Elbows), a onetime deal done at or after age 2
Patella (Knees) done at or after age 1
Cardiac (Heart) done at or after age 1

Beware of breeders who scoff at genetic testing and say their particular breed/line is problem-free.

3. A reputable breeder requires that "pet-quality" animals be spayed or neutered and sells them on Limited Registration. Be wary of breeders who do not mention altering.

4. A reputable breeder provides a written contract with the sale of the pup. This will vary from breeder to breeder, but usually spells out the rights of the seller and buyer, health information, genetic health guarantees (should be at least 2 years), required altering and buy-back/return policy.

5. A reputable breeder typically has a waiting list for the unborn puppies and does not advertise in the newspaper classifieds.

6. A reputable breeder shows passion, love, and tremendous knowledge about the breed. He or she cares about placing puppies in excellent homes and will often interview potential buyers thoroughly, will make referrals to the local Havanese rescue group, ask for references and will refuse to sell a dog if the home is not appropriate for the breed or for a puppy.

7. A reputable breeder recommends the local Havanese rescue organization to potential homes. Explain that these dogs make wonderful family pets and companions.

8. A reputable breeder will hold on to puppies as long as it takes to place them in the right homes and will continue to recommend rescue even though they have puppies available.

9. The environment (typically a home) in which the breeder keeps the dogs should be clean and well-maintained. Do not agree to meet the breeder off site. TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS ON THIS!

10. A reputable breeder is actively involved in the dog fancy, including showing and/or breed clubs. While there are exceptions--a retired individual who has shown dogs for 20 years--a person who is not involved with others in the breed can be suspect.

11. A reputable breeder is willing to provide answers to questions you may have and is willing to provide names of others who have purchased pups from them.

12. A reputable breeder will allow you to meet the puppy’s parents if available and, if the father isn't available, they will show you pictures and provide you with the information on how to contact the owner of the sire (father).

13. A reputable breeder follows up on puppies. He or she is interested in how the pups develop physically and mentally, difficulties in the owner/dog relationship and health problems.

14. A reputable breeder will not let puppies leave their home prior to 10 weeks of age and often not until 12 weeks of age.

15. A reputable breed is always available to answer your questions and to help you out with problems that you may have. The breeder’s involvement with you and the puppy should not end with the exchange of monies.

*Backyard Breeder*

1. Motive for breeding: "fun", "good for kids", "to make money". Does not screen buyers and seldom refuses to sell, even if buyer is unsuitable.

2. Breeds the family pet to any convenient pet of the same breed just to have purebred pups. Has no understanding or concern with genetics, pedigree bloodlines, or breed improvement.

3. Though the pets (sire/dam of pups) may be well loved, they were not tested for hip dysplasia or for other genetic problems such as cardio and eye diseases.

4. Offers no health guarantee beyond proof of shots, if that. Unqualified to give help if problems develop.

5. Seller has little knowledge of breed history, the national breed club or of the AKC breed standard. May claim this does not matter for "just pets".

6. Pups raised in makeshift accommodations, sometimes unsanitary, indicating lack of long-term investment in breeding and lack of true care for the puppies well-being.

7. Even when selling "just pets", may produce AKC papers or "championship pedigrees" as proof of quality. Yet seller does not increase his own knowledge through participation in national, regional, or local breed clubs. Is not involved in showing their dogs to "prove" quality.

8. May be unwilling to show a buyer the entire litter or to introduce the dam of the litter. Cannot or will not compare/critique pups or pup’s ancestors.

9. Prices are at the low end of local range, since must move pups quickly. Advertises in the local newspaper classifieds.

10. No concern for the future of individual pups or the breed as a whole. Does not use AKC’s limited registration option or ask for spay/neuter contract to guard against the breeding of sub-standard pups. If you cannot keep pup, tells you to take it to a dog pound or to sell it.

* Similarly to #2, "My dogs are health tested, but I couldn't afford to pay to have all the results posted on OFA's web site." The major expense is in getting the tests done! The fee to submit the results is pretty minimal. If the breeder could afford to do the health testing, there is no reason they couldn't shell out the nominal fee to have the results posted.

* Claims that there have never been any health issues in their lines, without qualification that the reality is that they could crop up and that this was in issue the breeder was actively conscious of.

* They won’t email you a copy of their standard puppy owner contract, even when asked for this several times. A reputable breeder provides a written contract with the sale of the pup. This will vary from breeder to breeder, but usually spells out the rights of the seller and buyer, health information, genetic health guarantees (should be at least 2 years), required altering and buy-back/return policy.

* Breeds more than one type/breed of dog. Be VERY careful of this. It is hard enough to properly raise and know all you need to know about one breed. The more breeds you have, the less quality they can produce.

* Has many litters available, more than 1-2 at a time. A breeder who has more than a couple of litters a year. Think about it by the number of puppies: 4 litters in this breed are often 15 or so puppies per year! That's a lot of dogs being brought into the world in a short time. Also, each breeding should be a masterwork of research and planning; it'd be hard to appropriately research and plan more than a handful a year

* The environment (typically a home) in which the breeder keeps the dogs should be clean and well-maintained. Do not agree to meet the breeder off site. TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS ON THIS! A breeder that is not reputable Discourages or won’t allow you to come to their home for visits. And or won’t let you meet the parents or other dogs.

* Breeder's dogs don't live in their home. (This is a very social breed, they love and need to be with their human contacts, they do not and should not be living outside or in kennels)

* Doesn't stress puppy socialization.

* Have a backyard (or acreage) filled with kennels.

*Reputable Breeder*

1. Dedication to producing quality dogs is serious avocation. Has so much invested in dogs that he struggles to break even, not make a profit. Will sell pups only to approved buyers.

2. Can explain how planned breedings are used to emphasize or minimize specific qualities through line breeding, out crossing, or more rarely, inbreeding.

3. Does not breed dogs younger than age 2. Has breeding stock x-rayed to check for hip/elbow dysplasia, BAER (Hearing), CERF (eyes) within the last year, Patella’s and Cardiac. Can produce certification to prove claims.

4. Written contractual commitment to replace a dog with genetic faults or to help owner deal with problem.

5. Loves the breed and can talk at length about its background, uses, and ideal type.

6. Has an investment in dog equipment and the puppy’s environment is sanitary and loving.

7. Belongs to national, regional, and/or local dog clubs, indicating a love for the sport of purebred dogs. Shows their dogs as an objective test of how his stock measures up.

8. Shows litter and dam in a sanitary environment. Helps buyer evaluate and choose a pup. Explains criteria for "show prospects" versus "pet picks".

9. Prices will be at the high end of local range. Price will not reflect all that is invested in the pups. A reputable breeder never profits from the sale of puppies. Does not advertise in the newspaper. Has an established waiting list for the pups.

10. After purchase, will help you with grooming or training problems. Will take back a pup you cannot keep rather than see it disposed of inappropriately. Sells pets with spay/neuter agreement and on AKC limited registration.

* A reputable Havanese breeder will conduct (and can provide proof of) the following genetic health tests on their breeding animals and will require them of the sire (father) should they "hire" a stud dog for the litter:

BAER (Hearing)
CERF (eyes) yearly
OFA (for hip displasia & Elbows), a onetime deal done at or after age 2
Patella (Knees) done at or after age 1
Cardiac (Heart) done at or after age 1
Beware of breeders who scoff at genetic testing and say their particular breed/line is problem-free.

* A reputable breeder requires that "pet-quality" animals be spayed or neutered and sells them on Limited Registration. Be wary of breeders who do not mention altering.

* A reputable breeder shows passion, love, and tremendous knowledge about the breed. He or she cares about placing puppies in excellent homes and will often interview potential buyers thoroughly, will make referrals to the local Havanese rescue group, ask for references and will refuse to sell a dog if the home is not appropriate for the breed or for a puppy.

A reputable breeder recommends the local Havanese rescue organization to potential homes. Explaining that these dogs make wonderful family pets and companions.

* A reputable breeder typically has a waiting list for the unborn puppies and does not advertise in the newspaper classifieds.

Be wary of breeders who Sells puppies online one commercial type web site like “Puppy Find” or Advertises in newspaper, flyers, etc. Most “Reputable Breeders” do not need to use sites like these, if you are looking for puppies on site like these, chances are the puppies are coming from puppy mills, brokers, and BYB.

* A reputable breeder will not breed dogs under the age of 2.


B*ELOW YOU WILL FIND A LIST OF QUESTIONS YOU MIGHT WANT TO ASK OF A BREEDER YOU CONTACT. DO YOUR HOMEWORK ABOUT THIS WONDERFUL BREED WHETHER YOU ARE WANTING A PET OR A SHOW HAVANESE. AFTER ALL, YOU WANT A HEALTHY HAVANESE TO SPEND MANY WONDERFUL YEARS.*



1. WHAT HEALTH TESTS DO YOU PERFORM ON YOUR BREEDING DOGS?
Ask for CERF and OFA/CHIC numbers, or ask for the Sire and Dam's AKC number so you can look up the Health testing yourself at: WWW.OFFA.ORG.

2. WILL YOU DO THE INITIAL WORMING AND VACCINATIONS OF THE PUPPIES? HOW MANY?

3. WHAT ARE YOUR REQUIREMENTS REGARDING SPAYING AND NEUTERING?

4. WHAT CHOICES DO I HAVE REGARDING SEX AND COLOR?

5. DO YOU HAVE BOTH PARENTS ON SITE? IF ONLY HAVE THE DAM, DO YOU HAVE INFORMATION AND PICTURES OF THE SIRE?

NOTE: IF NEITHER PARENT IS ON SITE, RUN FAST, AND DON'T ASK ANY MORE QUESTIONS!

6. AT WHAT AGE COULD I BRING MY PUPPY HOME?

Puppies should stay with their mothers and siblings until at least 10 weeks old

7. WHAT DO YOU CHARGE FOR SHOW OR PET?

The typical cost of a Havanese from a reputable is anywhere from $1500.00 - $2500.00 There may be some exceptions, but go with your instinct, If it sounds too good to be true - chances are it is.

8. ARE THE PARENTS AND PUPPIES AKC REGISTERED? IF NOT, WHY?

9. WILL YOU PROVIDE ME WITH A COPY OF THE PUPPIES PEDIGREE?

10. WILL YOU WITH LIMITED REGISTRATION ON MY PUPPY?

NOTE: BREEDERS SHOULD NOT BE CHARGING MORE FOR PAPERS, THIS IS AGAINST AKC'S RULES.

11. DO YOU SHOW YOUR DOGS IN CONFORMATION OR AGILITY OR OBEDIENCE?

12. WHAT TITLES DO YOUR DOGS HAVE?
I.E. AKC CHAMPIONSHIPS, AGILITY, CANINE GOOD CITIZEN (CGC), THERAPY DOG, OBEDIENCE.

13. DO YOU HAVE A HEALTH GUARANTEE? FOR HOW LONG? AND WHAT DOES YOUR HEALTH GUARANTEE COVER?

14. DO YOU REQUIRE CO-OWNERSHIP? IF SO, WHY AND FOR HOW LONG?

15. DO YOU HAVE A WAITING LIST IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PUPPY AVAILABLE NOW?

16. ARE YOU A MEMBER OF ANY HAVANESE CLUBS OR ALL BREED KENNEL CLUBS?

17. HOW MANY LITTER'S DO YOU HAVE IN A YEAR?

18. WILL YOU PROVIDE ME WITH A COPY OF YOUR CONTRACT BEFORE I COME TO GET MY PUPPY?

19. HAVE ANY OF YOUR DOGS OR THEIR OFFSPRING HAD ANY HEALTH PROBLEMS?

20. WHAT HEALTH PROBLEMS ARE YOU AWARE OF IN YOUR LINES?

NOTE: IF A BREEDER TELLS YOU THERE ARE NO HEALTH ISSUES, WALK AWAY! EVERY LINE HAS SOME SORT OF HEALTH ISSUES, THEY JUST MAY HAVE NOT SHOWN UP, BUT YOU SHOULD BE INFORMED OF ANY POSSIBILITIES THAT COULD CROP UP.

21. WHERE DO YOU KEEP THE PUPPIES FROM BIRTH UNTIL THEY GO TO THEIR NEW HOMES?

22. AM I ABLE TO COME VISIT AND SEE THE PUPPIES AND THEIR PARENTS?

Be cautious of breeders that won't allow you to come and see where the dogs are kept and raised. A reputable breeder should encourage you come see the puppies and their other dogs.

23. WILL YOU SHIP YOUR PUPPIES?

Again, reputable breeders will not ship their puppies unless attended by a responsible adult in the cabin of the plane; there are many different ways to get the puppy to you than unattended in the belly of a plane as cargo.

24. DO YOU MICROCHIP THE PUPPY BEFORE IT GOES HOME?

25. IF FOR SOME REASON I AM NO LONGER ABLE TO KEEP OR CARE FOR MY PUPPY/DOG, WHAT IS YOUR TAKE BACK POLICY?

A reputable breeder will always take a dog back no questions asked. Or they will help you to find the perfect home in the event you are no longer able to care for your dog.


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Overall, this is still great. There are a few things that are either wrong, out of date, or "maybe's" I'll just address those piece by piece!



Ricky Ricardo said:


> 1. A reputable breeder will not breed dogs under the age of 2.


It depends. USUALLY that is the case. However. SOMETIMES "stuff happens" (as in Fezzik's case, and a very nice puppy can be had from a VERY reputable breeder, when an "oops" happens!

Other times there can be valid reasons to breed a bitch OR a dog who is slightly under 2 years old. HOWEVER, if this is done, they should have at least had their preliminary hip X-rays, and all other testing completed. AND, this is something you should be able to discuss with the breeder, and she should be able to explain the reason why this course of action was chosen. (or NOT "chosen" in the case of Fezzik's sire... but they hurried and GOT all his testing done quickly once they knew he'd done the deed, and before the puppies were born! LOL!) Or times, a breeder may CHOOSE to breed a bitch shortly before her 2nd birthday, knowing that if they skip that heat, depending on her cycle, it will be at a bad time of year to try to catch her next cycle. (for instance, many breeders try NOT to produce "Christmas puppies" if they can avoid it!



Ricky Ricardo said:


> 2. A reputable Havanese breeder will conduct (and can provide proof of) the following genetic health tests on their breeding animals and will require them of the sire (father) should they "hire" a stud dog for the litter:
> 
> BAER (Hearing)
> CERF (eyes) yearly
> ...


Not quite sure where the original writer got this list. This is not the required testing according to HCA. Here, word for word, is what is required by HCA:

"At this time The Havanese Club of America, the AKC parent club for the Havanese breed, recommends four health tests be done to get a *CHIC* number. These tests are:

* An annual eye exam (CAER),*
* A hearing test (BAER),*
* A hip x-ray, and*
* Patella (knee) certification. *
Some breeders choose to do further testing for issues they feel are of benefit as well, such as cardiac, elbows, LCPD and thyroid. As more research and more testing becomes available the issue of recommended health testing will be revisited by the HCA." 

I think it is very important to INSIST on breed required testing. I did more on Panda, and many breeders do. But it is not required by the breed club, so I think it's a stretch to say it's "required" to consider a breeder a "reputable" breeder. 



Ricky Ricardo said:


> Beware of breeders who scoff at genetic testing and say their particular breed/line is problem-free.


This sentence is a bit puzzling, because there are virtually no genetic "problems" that I know of in Havanese that can be determined by genetic testing. Many breeders use genetic testing to plan coat colors of litters (particularly if they are interested in producing clear red or chocolate puppies) and if they are concerned about either the curly gene or the short haired gene, they would test for those. But none of these things affect the health of a puppy. The other reason for genetic testing is if there is any question on the possible sire of a litter. If there is any chance that a second male "got to" the bitch while she was in season. or in the case of a planned, double sired litter. In that case, the PUPPIES, not the parents, would be tested right after birth to determine paternity. But still not for "health" reasons.

Re: BYB's:



Ricky Ricardo said:


> 6. Pups raised in makeshift accommodations, sometimes unsanitary, indicating lack of long-term investment in breeding and lack of true care for the puppies well-being.


But also don't be reassured by lovely clean surroundings if a breeder doesn't hit the other marks. That alone doesn't get someone past the BYB category either!



Ricky Ricardo said:


> * Has many litters available, more than 1-2 at a time. A breeder who has more than a couple of litters a year. Think about it by the number of puppies: 4 litters in this breed are often 15 or so puppies per year! That's a lot of dogs being brought into the world in a short time. Also, each breeding should be a masterwork of research and planning; it'd be hard to appropriately research and plan more than a handful a year


This is an "it depends". one. It's certainly something to LOOK at. But a couple of the best breeders I know are perfectly capable of deftly handling several litters at once, and produce a number of litters each year. (often with a long break between) HOWEVER, they NEVER produce more puppies than they can EASILY find homes for, they have a proven track record for being able to handle puppies in numbers, AND have a proven track record for producing superior animals. So this is certainly one of those things to think about and maybe question in terms of how things look, how the dogs behave and how clean their home is... (remember ALL Havanese should kept and raised inside the home!!!) If it's dirty and smelly, I'd look elsewhere. If the home is clean and the puppies are being properly enriched developmentally, the breeder is pretty much proving that they can do the job! (God bless them! LOL!)

Questions:



Ricky Ricardo said:


> The typical cost of a Havanese from a reputable is anywhere from $1500.00 - $2500.00 There may be some exceptions, but go with your instinct, If it sounds too good to be true - chances are it is.


As we've discussed quite a bit here on the forum recently, this is WAY low nowadays. Prices on the east coast are consistently $3,000 - $3,500 From GOOD breeders. The astounding thing is that the savvy "questionable breeders" (I'll use that term, because they are certainly WAY beyond BYB's and some people here object to the term "puppy mill"  ) have caught on to what a hot commodity Havanese puppies are during Covid, and are charging * $4000* for poorly bred, non-health tested, unsocialized, un-potty trained puppies, and GETTING it!!!

And finally, just another couple of thoughts on things that have changed somewhat since the piece Popi posted was written.

Spay/Neuter: Thought on Spay and Neuter have evolved DRAMATICALLY since the advice above was first written, and many if to most breeders are allowing if not requiring that puppies not be neutered until they are older, if at all possible. Some more "old fashioned" breeders may not yet have changed their contracts, but if you are being a puppy from a breeder with a 6 month spay/neuter date, TALK to them about it. Almost all will allow you to delay spay/neuter if they know you want to do it for the health and well-being of the dog. 

For that matter, don't be in such an all-fire lather to get your puppy that you just sign on the dotted line without READING your contract. Most breeders are also fine with changing other minor details in their contract if it is reasonable and within their power. It doesn't hurt to ask, and as long as you are polite, the worst that can answer is that you get a "no".

Havanese Rescue: This piece makes a pretty big deal about referring people to Havanese Rescue. HRI is a great group and worthy of our support. But the fact is, they have no dogs. I just went on the site to check before I wrote that. In the whole US, they have TWO dogs on their "available" page, one with is "adoption pending", the other is listed as "applications closed". So it's a nice thought, but not very realistic. There was a time when there were more Havanese available for adoption. But not these days!


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## Tom King (Aug 2, 2006)

I didn't read all of Karen's post, but I'll come back later, and go into detail about why it's not fair to draw a hard line at the 2 year old age. I was there when anyone first started testing hips of Havanese, and the only reason the 2 year age is used is that it was arbitrarily set by OFA to get a Final rating on hips. You can get a preliminary rating before 2. 

I'll go into more detail, when I get a chance, but if you have a bitch whose cycles start at 11 months, that gives you the second heat to be bred on at 23 months, or 34 months. 

Hips don't change from 23 to 24 months. The parent club could change the starting date for a Final rating earlier, if anyone thought about it enough to discuss, and vote on it, but we haven't been involved in those politics for over ten years.

If we have a bitch, who is intended to be a breeding dog, who gets a passing rating by the one guy who rates them, we will breed her even if it's a month before she could get a Final. 

Hip evaluations is a long subject, that I will get into later. Don't have the time right now. I can think of three dogs, off the top of my head, who got a Mild Dysplastic on Prelims, and Excellent on Final. Xrays matter. Those dogs didn't have bad hips to start with. They had bad xrays. It can go the other way, if the breeder doesn't know how to look at xrays, and ask for a better take. The same dog, on the same day, even in the same Xray session, can have xrays taken that would go anywhere from Mild Dysplastic, to Excellent.


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## 31818 (Oct 29, 2014)

Please keep posting suggested revisions. It took me over 3 hours of cut and paste to put this together (when I should have been working on taxes for our CPA). I was getting bleary eyed so I missed some obvious things.

I am taking the day off tomorrow to do some catch up on family matters. All members of our family have been vaccinated (with all 3 of the approved vaccines) and we are going to party (with three dogs) at a combined birthday party! But I will incorporate revisions on Monday.


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Tom King said:


> I didn't read all of Karen's post, but I'll come back later, and go into detail about why it's not fair to draw a hard line at the 2 year old age. I was there when anyone first started testing hips of Havanese, and the only reason the 2 year age is used is that it was arbitrarily set by OFA to get a Final rating on hips. You can get a preliminary rating before 2.
> 
> I'll go into more detail, when I get a chance, but if you have a bitch whose cycles start at 11 months, that gives you the second heat to be bred on at 23 months, or 34 months.
> 
> ...


I wish there was a way to re-write that old piece that (I think Heather?) wrote. It has some good information in it, and I think it’s a good idea to have something to point new puppy buyers to. But there are things in this that I just don’t agree, other things that are just wrong, and some things that are just badly out if date.


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Ricky Ricardo said:


> Please keep posting suggested revisions. It took me over 3 hours of cut and paste to put this together (when I should have been working on taxes for our CPA). I was getting bleary eyed so I missed some obvious things.
> 
> I am taking the day off tomorrow to do some catch up on family matters. All members of our family have been vaccinated (with all 3 of the approved vaccines) and we are going to party (with three dogs) at a combined birthday party! But I will incorporate revisions on Monday.


Oh, that’t awesome, Popi! I thought you had just cut and pasted the whole old one here! I didn’t realize you were trying to bring it up to date! That’s fantastic!!! Then, if we get it in good shape, we could see if we can get the powers that be to replace the old sticky with the new one.

...And have a GREAT reunion full of HUGS tomorrow!!!


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## EvaE1izabeth (Nov 14, 2017)

There are a few threads that would be helpful to sticky along with this one, and the new forum support people did indicate they’d be willing. A few older threads with pictures Tom and others shared helped me set up my indoor potty, and several posts from Karen, and other people who have successfully indoor trained (including Mikki’s outline of indoor training she shared the other day) would be really great to sticky. A big mash-up of indoor training posts! Indoor training isn’t for everyone but it does help to dispel some of the ideas about it. The other thing is that individuals have different learning styles and respond to different language and framing. I have read the same thing multiple times on the forum and then one day thought, “ohhhh! I get it!” If we sticky something on potty training for instance, when we have a great conversation about it we could just add the link as a reply.


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## 31818 (Oct 29, 2014)

krandall said:


> I wish there was a way to re-write that old piece that (I think Heather?) wrote. It has some good information in it, and I think it’s a good idea to have something to point new puppy buyers to. But there are things in this that I just don’t agree, other things that are just wrong, and some things that are just badly out if date.


Yes, I am looking for suggestions to improve this post, from anyone, everyone. I already have some ideas that I will incorporate in an edit next week.



krandall said:


> Oh, *that’t* awesome, Popi!


That't ? I need to have @GoWithTheFlo translate that into the KIng's English for me! I know that this has been a stressful week for you Karen, but put the glass of wine down and don't post for another hour. 

My idea is to create a "sticky" for 'selecting a breeder' in a specific forum (maybe FAQs) to refer prospective owners to so that we don't need to recreate answers to the most common questions. I agree with @EvaE1izabeth that this can be enlarged to other questions like crate training, food choices, potty training, etc. In my opinion, there is a huge wealth of information and experience on HF that we need to memorialize for the future. I hope that others will try to incorporate past posts into a logical essay on various subjects. I think it will need to be edited over time as new research and information is made available to us. 

This is OUR forum and it will only be as good as we make it (which is already pretty dog good!)


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Ricky Ricardo said:


> Yes, I am looking for suggestions to improve this post, from anyone, everyone. I already have some ideas that I will incorporate in an edit next week.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Funny man! LOL! I’m not a great typist anyway, and the iPad with its “keyless keyboard” doesn’t increase my accuracy!

I think there is already a sticky on finding a breeder... Annie would know how to find it. But it’s old and outdated. I thought that was what you had posted. I think a group of Stickies for FAQ’s would be great!


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## EvaE1izabeth (Nov 14, 2017)

Yes, ShamaMama has a great memory for really useful threads and has created some herself with links for new puppy owners.


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## GoWithTheFlo (Oct 11, 2018)

Ricky Ricardo said:


> Yes, I am looking for suggestions to improve this post, from anyone, everyone. I already have some ideas that I will incorporate in an edit next week.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





krandall said:


> Funny man! LOL! I’m not a great typist anyway, and the iPad with its “keyless keyboard” doesn’t increase my accuracy!
> 
> I think there is already a sticky on finding a breeder... Annie would know how to find it. But it’s old and outdated. I thought that was what you had posted. I think a group of Stickies for FAQ’s would be great!


You guys crack me up🤣😘


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