# growling



## morridon (Oct 2, 2009)

My female Havanese named Holly is 16 months old. She has always been so so good never growled or got angry at anything. The only thing I don't think she really likes is being picked up alot which my family and I tend to do. she is so small and cute that we all tend to do it. Last night she had a busy bone next to her and my daughter went to pick her up and she growled (a real growl with teeth showing) at my daughter. I have told my family that we need to stop picking her up so much but I am a little upset about the growl. I don't want this to become a habit. We could actually take bones out of her mouth and she never cared. I am not sure why she acted that way. Does anyone have any insight on what to do if this happens again???

Thanks.


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## Lina (Apr 26, 2007)

You need to work on this every single day before she develops food aggression and protectiveness. The best way to train her is to start with the food bowl. Every day I would put in my hand into my pup's bowl while they were eating. At first I would always (every single time) add something really yummy like some pieces of cheese or jerky. This helps your dog associate a hand near its bowl as a positive thing. Once I felt certain that I could always do this, I would alternate putting my hand in with nothing in it, with treats and then taking some food away. I did this every single day. Yes, it's that important! You should do this yourself at first and then have the kids start doing it (once your pup realizes that it's okay to have a hand near her bowl).

For bones or chews, I would walk up to my dogs randomly and pick up the bone while they were very interested in it. If they just sat and looked at me, I'd put it right back down and say good boy. If they jumped up and/or growled (this didn't happen with me because I worked on it so much, but you might see this happen), I would take the bone away. In the beginning it also helps to take the bone away and give her something yummy as soon as you do (to tell her that taking something away can also have its positive effects). Do this in the beginning and then do it without giving her a treat, randomizing which one you do it from day to day. It's SO important to do this ALL the time when they're young to train them that food is YOURS and not THEIRS. You need to establish that first and foremost. Do NOT, I repeat NOT, reprimand her for growling. Growling is your pups only warning system. If you get mad at her for growling her only resort is to bite the next time, and that you *definitely* don't want! Instead, work on getting her to trust that humans are allowed to take yummy things away and most times it means that something even yummier is coming along! I started this from day one with my two and though I don't do it every day anymore (they are 2.5 and 1 years old), I will every once in a while do it again just to refresh their memory. Neither of them have ever had a problem with food aggression.


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## Havtahava (Aug 20, 2006)

Excellent advice, Carolina.

Please read Carolina's advice again. She has excellent tips on how to condition your dog correctly. I can't stress enough the part about not punishing for growling. Too many people reprimand their dogs for growling and you shouldn't. It is an audible cue of a problem before it escalates. If you take away the warning system, you risk a bite without warning happening in the future.


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## hannah&boo (Nov 4, 2009)

I don't know if this is good advice or not as I have only just got my Hav, but Boo tends to growl and I have just read a piece from www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/ and he suggests holding the pups mouth(gently!) and calmly saying shhhh until he or she stops.....I am not totally confident about giving advice yet so please research it yourself but after doing this with Boo for about a week he seems to be getting the message....but I think it is really important not to be stressed when you do it or you will make the doggy worse  also I don't know if this is relevent to you as Boo doesnt have food agression just mainly problems with other dogs!


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## Lina (Apr 26, 2007)

hannah&boo said:


> I don't know if this is good advice or not as I have only just got my Hav, but Boo tends to growl and I have just read a piece from www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/ and he suggests holding the pups mouth(gently!) and calmly saying shhhh until he or she stops.....I am not totally confident about giving advice yet so please research it yourself but after doing this with Boo for about a week he seems to be getting the message....but I think it is really important not to be stressed when you do it or you will make the doggy worse  also I don't know if this is relevent to you as Boo doesnt have food agression just mainly problems with other dogs!


Why is Boo growling? That's what you should be trying to correct, not the growling itself. There is a reason Boo is growling and you need to figure out what that is and work on that problem. As I mentioned above, and Kimberly pointed out as well, reprimanding for growling (and holding your dog's mouth even gently is a reprimand) can lead to serious problems down the line. Do you know what causes Boo to growl? Is he just grumbling or is it a deeper problem? This is what you should be trying to find out and then work on that.


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## hannah&boo (Nov 4, 2009)

Hi Lina, Boo only growls when dogs walk past the house or garden and he has really bad days and some days when he is less bothered, I got Boo as a four year old rescue about 6 weeks ago and he has been like this since I got him, I am constantly reading advice and training but I am at a loss as to what to do with him in say town for instance as he is far worse on the lead than off. I do have a feeling he is very insecure as this is his third (and final!) move in four years, and in his last house as he went back to the original breeder there were about 14 other dogs there and now he has come to our hous enad he is the "only child!" could it be that he doesnt want any other dogs near?


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## Lina (Apr 26, 2007)

Well, growling when dogs are near the house wouldn't bother me that much, unless it was extremely aggressive. Kubrick growls at the doorbell, because he's warning me that people are coming. We live in an apartment building and when people are being loud, he'll sit by the door and grumble about the fact that they're being loud. When people come in, however, he knows to be nice and he stops the growling. Is this what Boo does or how does he react when dogs come over? Keeping him from growling when dogs are around isn't solving the problem, it's just keeping him from growling. If he's afraid, you may find that he'll snap at a dog next time because he'll think that growling is not okay, so his only alternative is to bite.

6 weeks is also not a long time for a rescue (or even any dog in fact) to be 100% okay with a new place. He's still getting his bearings and you'll find that he'll become more comfortable as time goes by. If you want to work on how he deals with dogs walking by, that's something you can definitely do by distracting him with commands and treats! Most trainers I trust will tell you that if a dog is really upset by something you shouldn't force him to be okay with it, especially if he isn't ready.

If I were you I would work on training when a dog comes by. Of course, you need to do this when dogs aren't around as well. When Kubrick was young he was scared to death of other dogs (due to his not being well-socialized before he came to me) so I worked on getting him to focus on ME when other dogs were around, and not on the other dog. So when we were out for a walk and another dog was approaching, I would make him sit and watch me (the watch command is important for this) and feed him lots of treats (small pieces, of course) until the dog passed by. In other words, I wanted him to ignore the dog. The first thing you need to teach Boo is how to ignore a dog altogether then, and only then, should you work on teaching him how to be friendly with them. And Kubrick is now possibly the most friendly dog (to other dogs) I've ever met, so it does happen, it just takes time.

ETA: I hope my post makes sense... I just realized that it seems all over the place. Let me know if you need clarification as I'm too cold to fix it... my heater isn't working today and it's 40 degrees. Blegh!


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## hannah&boo (Nov 4, 2009)

Ahh okay that's great advice I think you get to the stage where you have read so many different things you don't know what to try anymore! and no he doesn't freak out when dogs go by and I also live in an apartment and he is grumbling when say neighbour's are loudly closing doors etc! and Boo is fine with people when they come in a..... little stand offish at first till he has met them a few times but I think that is great!
And on our walks i take him to a some local fields and occassionlay we come across dogs in the field generally there are a fair few on the walk to the field so I could practise then. I am also socialising him with my step Mums dog and my Sisters and Mums and when they first met he was very agressive but after he had met them once although he is not overly impressed with them he is not stressed in their company. And I will start tommorow to get him to ignore other dogs.....I just think we would both be so much happier if we could sort the problem it must be awful for him to feel so stressed whilst out and it's certainly no fun for me!!!


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## hannah&boo (Nov 4, 2009)

oh and to answer your question I missed!!! if a dog comes over he will lunge at them and try to bite which i understand if they are being agressive but generally they want to play and he wants to kill them!


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## Milo's Mom (Aug 31, 2008)

Lina,

Do you have any ideas for Milo? He shows aggressive behavior in two ways:

1) Workmen in the house: he will actually ty to nip them if I don't keep him tethered to me.

2) Everybody leaving the house. When visitors leave (including my adult children), he will try to grab them by the ankle. I always leash him before people try to leave. It'a very inconvenient.


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## kudo2u (Mar 7, 2009)

Milo's Mom said:


> Lina,
> 
> 2) Everybody leaving the house. When visitors leave (including my adult children), he will try to grab them by the ankle. I always leash him before people try to leave. It'a very inconvenient.


I've heard this is a form of separation anxiety. He doesn't like people leaving him, so he's trying to be in control of the situation and make them stay. I'm afraid I can't remember the recommended solution....sorry. Maybe you can google that and see what suggestions you get?


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

morridon said:


> My female Havanese named Holly is 16 months old. She has always been so so good never growled or got angry at anything. The only thing I don't think she really likes is being picked up alot which my family and I tend to do. she is so small and cute that we all tend to do it. Last night she had a busy bone next to her and my daughter went to pick her up and she growled (a real growl with teeth showing) at my daughter. I have told my family that we need to stop picking her up so much but I am a little upset about the growl. I don't want this to become a habit. We could actually take bones out of her mouth and she never cared. I am not sure why she acted that way. Does anyone have any insight on what to do if this happens again???
> 
> Thanks.


Does this happen often, with everyone or just your daughter. I am not sure whether this has to do with being picked up ,or whether she is resource guarding. A little more info is needed. But as mentioned ,do not reprimand her growling.


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## Sam375 (Feb 2, 2009)

Hi-
I have had very similar issues with Harry-
We pratice nothing in life is free technique and try to do as much as possible to make him NOT dominate, especially over the kids. 
It has helped but he's still untrusty with a certain type of bone and there are times when I do not trust him but he has gotten better.


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## tuggersmom (Oct 16, 2008)

I think the best example we can be with our dogs is to study how dogs behave with each other especially if they are a well established pack. We had a number of dogs at one time and it was a great teaching experience. If one dog had something and the alpha wanted it the lower pack member would give it up and walk away. When we threw one ball for 3 dogs the 2 lower dogs would look to the alpha to see if he wanted to fetch it first. He would then just walk out and bring it back. The other dogs respected the alpha dog and wouldn't jump all over him or most importantly touch his food.

So, when I am with my single Havanese now, I try to pretend that I am the alpha dog and I try to think about how another alpha dog would see the incident. I take things away from him at different times. I go out the door first etc. And now that I have kids I read and practice that the dog should see them as offspring of the alpha so they should be respected because of you. (Generally without your support the dog won't see them as above them in the pack) So, I will often ask my son to take Tuggers bone when I am standing behind him just in case he needs to be reinforced.

The nice thing is, once the dog has accepted his role in the pack you can relax and have fun with the dog as a part of the family. Yesterday, I looked over and my son and Tugger were playing tug of war with my son also holding the toy in his mouth. The two of them were eye to eye on the ground pulling the toy with their mouths having a great time. If Tugger were allowed to think he was dominate then this could have ended with a bite. Of course I still supervise everything but it is fun to watch them play.

deb



morridon said:


> My female Havanese named Holly is 16 months old. She has always been so so good never growled or got angry at anything. The only thing I don't think she really likes is being picked up alot which my family and I tend to do. she is so small and cute that we all tend to do it. Last night she had a busy bone next to her and my daughter went to pick her up and she growled (a real growl with teeth showing) at my daughter. I have told my family that we need to stop picking her up so much but I am a little upset about the growl. I don't want this to become a habit. We could actually take bones out of her mouth and she never cared. I am not sure why she acted that way. Does anyone have any insight on what to do if this happens again???
> 
> Thanks.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

tuggersmom said:


> I think the best example we can be with our dogs is to study how dogs behave with each other especially if they are a well established pack. We had a number of dogs at one time and it was a great teaching experience. If one dog had something and the alpha wanted it the lower pack member would give it up and walk away. When we threw one ball for 3 dogs the 2 lower dogs would look to the alpha to see if he wanted to fetch it first. He would then just walk out and bring it back. The other dogs respected the alpha dog and wouldn't jump all over him or most importantly touch his food.
> 
> So, when I am with my single Havanese now, I try to pretend that I am the alpha dog and I try to think about how another alpha dog would see the incident. I take things away from him at different times. I go out the door first etc. And now that I have kids I read and practice that the dog should see them as offspring of the alpha so they should be respected because of you. (Generally without your support the dog won't see them as above them in the pack) So, I will often ask my son to take Tuggers bone when I am standing behind him just in case he needs to be reinforced.
> 
> ...


Couldn't disagree with you more. Taking things away from your dog that he is guarding ,only gives him more reason to guard it. This has nothing to do with " alpha". Any dog in a household can resource guard. It is a natural instinct with dogs to resource guard. Try doing this sort of thing with a large dog is extremely dangerous and even so with a Havanese. Many children are bitten in the face in particular and a large percentage of the cases are because of resource guarding. If you want to read a good book ,perhaps the most recognized book on resource guarding , try MINE by Jean Donaldson.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

Just some info on dog bites and resource guarding.
November 5th, 2009 by Eric Goebelbecker 
There are approximately 1 million dog bites each year in the United States. Between 60 and 70% of them are to 

children. That's a pretty staggering statistic.

Why are a majority of bites to children? In 2007, three researchers attempted to address that question. They 

examined the records from three years of bite cases involving children from the Behavior Clinic of the Matthew J 

Ryan Veterinary Hospital of the University of Pennsylvania. They looked at 111 cases. (There were actually 145 

cases, but they could not determine the age of the children in 34 of them so they were not included.) A few of the 

cases were repeat offenders; there were only 103 unique dogs in the study.

The numbers that grabbed my attention and lead me to purchase the paper were these:

•44% of bites to children less than six years old were associated with resource guarding. 
•23% of children older than six years old were bit in association with territory guarding. 
•Food guarding was the the cause in 42% of the bites to familiar children. 
•In 53% of bites to unfamiliar children, territory guarding was the cause. 
The food and resource guarding statistics grabbed me by the throat and then pulled the credit card right out of my 

wallet. Almost one half of bite cases involved a dog guarding something! Considering all of the possible situations 

involving children and dogs this is pretty significant.

As a matter of fact, the abstract even states that "Behavioral screening of the 103 dogs examined revealed resource 

guarding (61%) and discipline measures (59%) as the most common stimuli for aggression." Unfortunately there are no 

real details regarding the discipline measures to explain the overlap, I.E. how many bites were the result of 

disciplining the dog for guarding?

Without going any further into the data, what do we know? Dogs and children under six cannot be left alone. (The 

proper age is probably somewhere closer to 10 or 11, but that's another discussion.) Just think of the things that 

can end up being guarded; a toy, a seat on the sofa, a dropped snack, a used tissue...

What is resource guarding? It's a behavior that we humans really don't appreciate but is actually very normal for 

dogs. The behavior is pretty much what the name implies; trying to hold on to something valuable. If you think in 

evolutionary terms this tendency was very valuable for at least a few thousand years. It's only recently that it 

became undesirable and counterproductive to survival.

Depending on the individual dog and the relative value of the item, "guarding" can range from placing a paw on top 

of the item, to growling, all the way to bite(s). Most dogs "warn" well before the growling or biting (I worked 

with a dog this week that appeared to me to be screaming at me with her eyes and face over a piece of paper) but 

children are generally not very good at reading these signals.

How about the 59% for discipline measures? Remember, kids copy adults. If your children see you disciplining the 

dog they may decide to do the same, and that just may be the time that the dog decides she's had enough. Moreover, 

discipline is not effective with resource guarding, it frequently leads to escalation.

Dig a little deeper and there are a few more interesting tidbits in the study. 77% of the dogs displayed some form 

of anxiety, such as inappropriate attention-seeking behaviors, significant noise or thunderstorm anxiety, 

separation anxiety or generalized anxiety. If this isn't a compelling reason to seek help when your dog displays 

any behavioral problem regardless of whether or not it involves aggression, I don't know what is.

Also, medical conditions were either identified or suspected in half of the dogs. The study mentions both 

orthopedic and dermatologic conditions. Most trainers and behavior consultants are aware of how important it is 

identify and/or rule out medical conditions before starting a behavior modification program. At the same time, 

parents should be aware that if their dog has a medical condition that may be uncomfortable or painful, extra 

attention and care around children is important.

In my opinion, the biggest takeaway from this report is how preventable many of the 600,000+ bites to children each 

year really are. While adult supervision is no guarantee of safety, it seems that it could play a huge role in 

preventing many guarding incidents. At the same time, prompt attention to behavioral and medical issues most likely 

would prevent a large number of unfortunate incidents too


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## krandall (Jun 11, 2009)

Hi Dave,

So what DO you suggest for resource guarding? Surely it's not acceptable for a dog to be snapping at people. (as I've seen some dogs do over food or toys)

In Kodi's case, he's very willing to hand me his own toys, I suppose because he knows I will give them right back if he gives them to me on the "drop it" command. However, he does lots of running away, growling and jaw clamping (not on me, on the item) when he has contraband in his mouth. In these instances, I HAVE to get the item away from him, whether he wants it or not, because it might be something that could hurt him (and I can't always tell until I've pried it out of his mouth<g>). "Trading" for a cookie worked to teach him to drop toys for me, but he values his contraband highly enough (I think because he knows I won't give it back) that he won't fall for the cookie trade. My only option is to forcibly remove the item from his mouth. I don't get mad or speak harshly, I just do it.

I'm not sure if this is exactly the same as resource guarding, and Kodi certainly isn't an anxious dog... he is very relaxed and self-confident. But I'm curious to know what you suggest for the more typical forms of resource guarding as well.


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## christie6104 (Apr 8, 2009)

Lina said:


> You need to work on this every single day before she develops food aggression and protectiveness. The best way to train her is to start with the food bowl. Every day I would put in my hand into my pup's bowl while they were eating. At first I would always (every single time) add something really yummy like some pieces of cheese or jerky. This helps your dog associate a hand near its bowl as a positive thing. Once I felt certain that I could always do this, I would alternate putting my hand in with nothing in it, with treats and then taking some food away. I did this every single day. Yes, it's that important! You should do this yourself at first and then have the kids start doing it (once your pup realizes that it's okay to have a hand near her bowl).
> 
> For bones or chews, I would walk up to my dogs randomly and pick up the bone while they were very interested in it. If they just sat and looked at me, I'd put it right back down and say good boy. If they jumped up and/or growled (this didn't happen with me because I worked on it so much, but you might see this happen), I would take the bone away. In the beginning it also helps to take the bone away and give her something yummy as soon as you do (to tell her that taking something away can also have its positive effects). Do this in the beginning and then do it without giving her a treat, randomizing which one you do it from day to day. It's SO important to do this ALL the time when they're young to train them that food is YOURS and not THEIRS. You need to establish that first and foremost. Do NOT, I repeat NOT, reprimand her for growling. Growling is your pups only warning system. If you get mad at her for growling her only resort is to bite the next time, and that you *definitely* don't want! Instead, work on getting her to trust that humans are allowed to take yummy things away and most times it means that something even yummier is coming along! I started this from day one with my two and though I don't do it every day anymore (they are 2.5 and 1 years old), I will every once in a while do it again just to refresh their memory. Neither of them have ever had a problem with food aggression.


I agree totally. Mine did the same thing the first time I reached for his bone and I did a couple of things that were suggested in this post and he never growled at me again. Great advice!


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

krandall said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> So what DO you suggest for resource guarding? Surely it's not acceptable for a dog to be snapping at people. (as I've seen some dogs do over food or toys)
> 
> ...


Hi Karen, with any cues that you teach your dog , you have to proof them all the time. You have to make them so reliable that even the biggest possession is something they are willing to give up. Here is an article that goes through the process. This is a very important thing to train. As you mentioned ,if a dog was to pick up something it found that is dangerous ,it could be the difference between life or death. With resource guarding if it gets to the point where the problem is escalating or if the dog has bitten someone, it is time to seek professional help. It is something to work on continually throughout your dogs life. If a dog is a stealer don't chase the dog, move away from the dog running and/or calling excitedley; try opening the fridge; try rattling your keys or opening the front door; tossing a ball or treat; or prompting any other distracting activity that motivates an individual dog. Here is the article. 
http://ahimsadogtraining.com/blog/resource-guarding/


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## Havtahava (Aug 20, 2006)

Fabulous article with great detail, Dave! Thanks for posting that.

Karen, that article is akin to what Carolina was saying about in regard to conditioning your dog to realize that you are the source of good things. Granted, the points on how to do it are near the end of the article, but the whole article is fabulous.


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## davetgabby (Dec 29, 2007)

It is a good article Kimberley. I will never forget the one time my Molly guarded something. We were in the back yard and normally she never goes in the garden. So I see her go in there and picks something up in her mouth. So I went over to see what she had . I couldn't tell what it was but I asked her to "lets see" (my cue) and she growled at me. Sort of shocked me because this was a first and she sort of hurt my feelings -boo hoo. It took a little coaxing but I didn't want to take it out of her mouth, I wanted her to give it up. After 2-3 minutes she did. It turned out to be a piece of chicken (cooked) ,and to this day I don't know where it came from. Someone must have thrown it over the fence. But when I thought about it later I realized why she was so bound and determined to hang on to it. She must have been proud of herself to find her own meal. LOL.


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## Havtahava (Aug 20, 2006)

LOL! No kidding. How many times has she gone out and brought back her own dinner?


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## Jammies (Apr 4, 2009)

davetgabby said:


> Hi Karen, with any cues that you teach your dog , you have to proof them all the time. You have to make them so reliable that even the biggest possession is something they are willing to give up. Here is an article that goes through the process. This is a very important thing to train. As you mentioned ,if a dog was to pick up something it found that is dangerous ,it could be the difference between life or death. With resource guarding if it gets to the point where the problem is escalating or if the dog has bitten someone, it is time to seek professional help. It is something to work on continually throughout your dogs life. If a dog is a stealer don't chase the dog, move away from the dog running and/or calling excitedley; try opening the fridge; try rattling your keys or opening the front door; tossing a ball or treat; or prompting any other distracting activity that motivates an individual dog. Here is the article.
> http://ahimsadogtraining.com/blog/resource-guarding/


*Great article Dave. Thanks for always providing us with links to proper information.*


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## ama0722 (Nov 28, 2006)

I dont think there is much difference in what Deb v. Lina v. Dave's article is saying to do- just practice it. Whether you believe dogs are exhibiting dominance or not when doing it, just be consistent in how you deal with the behavior. In fact the article says children should do the conditioning under adult supervision.

My dogs have never exhibited it towards me (Belle has with my husband) but they do this with each other. I taught them drop and leave it and it is one of the commands I take very serious. I still remember everyone laughing at therapy dog when your dog has to walk by food, I told Isabelle to leave it and she crossed on the other side of me to walk cause she wanted to avoid the temptation. She does the same thing in rally- the smallest figure 8 cause the word leave it was involved. Throw down one bone in my house and you definitely see the pack come into play. Dora will often take Dasher's bone but you never see Dash take Dora's.


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## HavaTwizz (Aug 16, 2009)

This is the thread I've been lurking for. Twizzi is now 7mo.
Doing great. She's nothing but adorable, and thank-god
loves the snow! She was chewing a bone and really into it.
I came too say"HI" and pet her and she growled and then
my husband said, NO and ooops she snapped at him. 
I understand about the growling being a warning, but he was upset and said what if it was a child? She does'nt care about her food or toy's, just the bone thing I think it has something to do with the dogs that have visited,they play and take each others bones.It's strange because she pick's them up once in a while. So I have not given
her a bone in awhile. I don't even think she misses them.
So can she just be possessive of these bones and nothing
else?


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## christie6104 (Apr 8, 2009)

The only time Lucky growled at me was over "his" bone. I think if you try out some of the suggestions from this thread you'll have great success.


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## luv3havs (Jul 27, 2007)

Our dear old Kelly, our family dog of 14 years, growled at me only once in all that time. It was over a bone that I was trying to take away from her. I never gave her another bone, ever.
I probably should have worked with her on that issue, but I didn't know better at the time, so NO Bones solved the problem.


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## HavaTwizz (Aug 16, 2009)

I'm glad to know there are others out there with the
my bone thing. She is good with kid's and dog's.She
is in intermediate classes and doing great. I would say
this is the only issue. She has come so far, she had SA
for some time. She's housebroken- yeah! So I will work
on this.Off topic,I was reading all the Hav's quirks, wow
they are alot alike. I think I will give her a roll of toilet
paper for x-mas.I think she maybe half Goat sometimes!


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## TheVintageVamp (Oct 14, 2009)

HavaTwizz said:


> I think I will give her a roll of toilet
> paper for x-mas.I think she maybe half Goat sometimes!


ound:ound:ound:ound:

Sorry...this just struck my funny bone...and brought back fond memories of a shih Tzu I had for 9 years that was never happier than when he got ahold of a box of tissues...


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## HavaTwizz (Aug 16, 2009)

When ever she's real quiet or I don't see her for awhile, you can
bet she found herself some toilet paper or a napkin.Just like a kid.
Then how bad is this? We put the rolls up on the counter.


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