# How to comb out a mat or knot?



## miko (May 28, 2008)

What's the proper way to comb out a mat or knot that's already there. Miko is in pain when the comb is caught on a knot and I try to pull it out. He yelps and cries and runs away. I feel like this is hurting our relationship because he would back away if I try to approach him again. I am just using a regular greyshound comb.


----------



## kelrobin (Jan 21, 2008)

I have learned to do it with my fingers a little at a time . . . and break it into small mats. I think I do better by feeling it than with the comb. It's not worth continually hurting them  Others may have other ideas. I remember someone said they cut a large mat with scissors. Thank goodness haven't had one of those yet!!


----------



## Havtahava (Aug 20, 2006)

If it is a loose mat, you can handle it like Kathy said and pull it apart with your fingers. If it is really tight, and I really want to save the coat, then start from the outside (the end farthest from the follicle/skin) and pull it apart with a comb.

If the mat is really tight and dense, then don't waste time trying to pull it apart. Just take a pair of scissors and cut into it perpendicular to the skin. (From the direction of the root of the hair to the end farthest from the skin) Try to comb it out from the outside (farthest from the skin) and if you still have trouble, give it one or two more small cuts (never cutting the mat laterally) and then comb it all out.

Miko will not hold it against you, so don't worry about that. Do what you need to do and treat him for putting up with it, but he doesn't think the same as humans and he'll get over it quickly. Do *not *quit if he fusses though. If you quit at any point when he is causing a ruckus, you will set a pattern of behavior for him that can escalate quickly. Continue combing until he reaches a calm point, even if you start combing an area that is already mat-free, and then reward him for tolerating it and stop.


----------



## JASHavanese (Apr 24, 2007)

miko said:


> What's the proper way to comb out a mat or knot that's already there. Miko is in pain when the comb is caught on a knot and I try to pull it out. He yelps and cries and runs away. I feel like this is hurting our relationship because he would back away if I try to approach him again. I am just using a regular greyshound comb.


You can wet the mat and put a leave on conditioner on it. That will make your comb slide through it easier. Start at the edge of the mat and get out a few hairs at a time so that there's not a lot of pain. If the comb won't slide through you can take a pair of scissors and start at the base of the mat at the skin and slide the scissors up through the mat. Be careful if you're dealing with a show coat and if using scissors, be careful of those also. If you do wet the mat and get it out that way, make sure you dry the fur when you get the mat out or it will mat again.


----------



## ama0722 (Nov 28, 2006)

After my grooming session with my breeder this weekend my answer is you don't let your dog get matted (Great answer!) 

However, she also gave me the rotating teeth comb a few weeks ago and on Dora who is being shredded and matted by the constant puppy teeth, that has really helped! Good luck, I think you have a lot of options. I always brush thru with a pin brush first and then get down to the good spots.

Amanda


----------



## Ans (Jan 4, 2008)

In the Netherlands we use a spray, an easyer way to comb.

http://www.cgsupplies.com/cgi-bin/det-all.aspx

http://www.midwestgrooming.com/product.php?productid=710&cat=282&page=1


----------



## Mijo's Mom (Apr 19, 2007)

I agree, start with the outside of the mat first. I have found that spraying on the Johnson and Johnson detangler spray really helps too! It comes in a greenish coloured bottle. Good luck!

Connie


----------



## EstrellaVila (Nov 30, 2007)

Spray some conditioner and use your fingers and just try to stay calm and say nice things the whole time to the puppy. Tito likes it better when I am nice to him and approach it delicately, if I am frustrated he immediately picks up on it and tries to wiggle away. But if I slowly nicely start picking him up and moving him around for those mats he is much nicer about letting me do it. Like Kimberly said, you have to keep going when they are cranky or else they learn how to get out of the situation! She taught us that and it is so very true.


----------



## Krimmyk (Dec 7, 2006)

I use Aussi spray on conditioner and wet the mat, I actually had our first in months the other day. Due to the fact its been pouring buckets around here the last couple weeks. Just what I wanted to do during a tornado warning!


----------



## Jane (Jun 2, 2007)

As you work out the mat, starting from the outermost part of it, if you use *only one tine* on the comb, it will help to "unravel" it. If you use multiple tines, it will snag and pull more. It helps to hold the base of the mat (next to the skin) to minimize yanking on the dog. Good luck!


----------



## Tom King (Aug 2, 2006)

Now I know you've always heard never to use a slicker brush but that's what Pam uses. A small red Universal brand. I think you've always heard not to use one because if you use it like a regular brush it will just break a lot of hairs.

She doesn't use it like a regular brush. I've not seen her cut a mat. Here's her method: She holds the mat and picks at the end of it with kind of a rolling, gentle picking motion rather than a combing, brushing stroke and works her way to the base. It takes a lot of time but she can unravel any mat with this method with the least possible damage. She always keeps the area misted with some diluted conditioner and remists when it starts to become "staticy". Hold the base of the mat with the other hand so it doesn't pull on the dog's skin and it will quickly learn to relax.

I'm sure a lot of the technique is in feel since I can't do it like she can. We have spent as much as three hours on a matted dog brought to us by owners who have let it get away from them.


----------



## baca008 (May 16, 2008)

Quick question. Avery has soooooo much hair and it always tangles. Avery just hates to be combed and will fight me. I was wondering if it would help it I tried thinning it out with thinning shears. Has anyone tried this?


----------



## havanesebyha (Apr 25, 2007)

baca008 said:


> Quick question. Avery has soooooo much hair and it always tangles. Avery just hates to be combed and will fight me. I was wondering if it would help it I tried thinning it out with thinning shears. Has anyone tried this?


Don't do it! I did and wrecked it ~ leave that up to the pros and in my opinion don't do any thinning on any Havanese even if they have tons of hair. It makes for tons of fly aways and an uneven look. If you are not showing a puppy cut is the best.


----------



## Havtahava (Aug 20, 2006)

I agree with Libby. Not only does it give it a choppy look (if you aren't a pro at doing this), but having so many different lengths of hairs will also make it more prone to matting. It sounds like that would defeat your purpose too.


----------



## kelrobin (Jan 21, 2008)

Well so much for my advice of using fingers on the mats! We just returned from a five day trip with my son in charge of Jackson who is one big matted mess. Although I instructed my son on brushing, I knew he wouldn't use the comb, and we have mats under the legs, HUGE ones on the hocks, and even on the feet! Yikes! I am going to make an attempt later today, but I think it's time for a summer cut. 

How do you get them to sit still for the mats under the legs? I can harness Jackson for the outer ones, but don't seem to have much luck getting underneath the legs closest to the body.


----------



## Havtahava (Aug 20, 2006)

Kathy, that is such a tender area, that we try to use two people for under the legs or armpits. I don't mess around in those areas and go straight for the metal comb (Butter Comb or Greyhound is my preference) and use scissors when necessary to make it as least painful as possible.

The hocks, ankles, feet are so hard to demat once they get tangled, especially on a dog that is sensitive to touch. I don't envy you there.


----------



## kelrobin (Jan 21, 2008)

Thanks, Kimberly . . . I think I am just going to take him to the groomer. I may try a few of the mats myself and let her work the rest. Jackson has a fit every time I even touch one of the mats, so they may be pulling or in an area where he was biting himself. Yikes!! :hurt:


----------



## Lilly's mom (Aug 10, 2007)

[email protected] said:


> Thanks, Kimberly . . . I think I am just going to take him to the groomer. I may try a few of the mats myself and let her work the rest. Jackson has a fit every time I even touch one of the mats, so they may be pulling or in an area where he was biting himself. Yikes!! :hurt:


Does your groomer actually demat? They usually just want to shave them down. Question them about that before you leave Jackson.


----------



## baca008 (May 16, 2008)

havanesebyha said:


> Don't do it! I did and wrecked it ~ leave that up to the pros and in my opinion don't do any thinning on any Havanese even if they have tons of hair. It makes for tons of fly aways and an uneven look. If you are not showing a puppy cut is the best.





Havtahava said:


> I agree with Libby. Not only does it give it a choppy look (if you aren't a pro at doing this), but having so many different lengths of hairs will also make it more prone to matting. It sounds like that would defeat your purpose too.


Thanks for stopping me from doing something stupid. Glad, I asked. I purchased a porcupine brush today and Avery seems to do really well with it. Doesn't scream and cry like the other brushes & combs.


----------



## miko (May 28, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> Well so much for my advice of using fingers on the mats! We just returned from a five day trip with my son in charge of Jackson who is one big matted mess. Although I instructed my son on brushing, I knew he wouldn't use the comb, and we have mats under the legs, HUGE ones on the hocks, and even on the feet! Yikes! I am going to make an attempt later today, but I think it's time for a summer cut.
> 
> How do you get them to sit still for the mats under the legs? I can harness Jackson for the outer ones, but don't seem to have much luck getting underneath the legs closest to the body.


Miko has the exact same problem right now. His back is great. No mats there because we comb it every day. Now his 'leg pits' are full of huge mat. It's almost impossible to keep him on his back and try to comb them out. He just went to the groomer 2 weeks ago! I can't afford $100 grooming session every 2 weeks....I am frustrated...Miko is frustrated...I think he secretly hates me now.


----------



## The Fussy Puppy Gang (May 21, 2007)

I keep Pepper's armpits shaved so they're not a matting problem. His hair doesn't grow out very fast, so he would go in for a hygiene trim and 'touch-up' every 2 months or so. For us, that's a $12-20 charge, depending on whether they trimmed under his feet or not.

If you don't already, you might want to try brushing and combing Miko out daily. It really helps cut down on mats. 

When we first got Pepper he was NOT happy about being groomed. We had him trimmed into a puppy cut and I made it a habit to comb him out every night. We'd sit in front of the TV, him across my lap, and I'd comb out one side and then the other. I needed to learn how to comb out his coat, and he needed to learn how to relax and be still for me. Believe me, practice makes perfect! :thumb: A year later his coat is long and plush and he is an absolute ragdoll when I comb him out, even when it takes me an hour. 

Today he got a puppy cut again. He'll still get combed out every night, it just won't take as long.


----------



## Julie (Feb 8, 2007)

What I do for the underside is sit on the floor with my legs straight out. Then I get Quince and lay him on my legs(4 feet in the air)....I rub his chest alittle and comb. He is so calm and relaxed,I can bounce him on my legs and he falls asleep. After we are done grooming I give him a liver treat.

The most important thing is to never let them fuss and win. You must be firm and always win. Even if you are done----if he fusses,do it alittle longer and quit when YOU are done....then praise and treat.


----------



## Barney's Mom (Nov 24, 2006)

*Strange but helpful..*

I know this is going to sound strange, but when Barney gets those impossible tangles in his fur, I use a little cooking oil and rub it in with my fingers...then, use the detangler combs (found at almost every pet store) and voila....out come the trouble spots!

I try to not use too much cause then he needs a bath!!!!!!!

Hope this helps,

Marge and Barney, in MN


----------



## Me&2Girls (May 11, 2007)

Someone shared an interesting trick with me this weekend - if you notice, most mats are wound clockwise. So if you twist counterclockwise as you are combing, you can also help get a lot of the mat undone. Who would have thought? Since we're on the west coast, I wonder if it's the opposite direction east of the rockies?


----------



## Jane (Jun 2, 2007)

Me&2Girls said:


> Someone shared an interesting trick with me this weekend - if you notice, most mats are wound clockwise. So if you twist counterclockwise as you are combing, you can also help get a lot of the mat undone. Who would have thought? Since we're on the west coast, I wonder if it's the opposite direction east of the rockies?


ound: How weird! I'm going to check out Scout's mats the next time I groom him!


----------



## SmittenHavaneseMommy (Feb 18, 2008)

We use leave in conditioner on Kona too for the really bad ones. He gets a few of those stubborn ones around his hind end... and boy he does NOT like to have those combed out...


----------

